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+--- Thread: HardiPlank (/showthread.php?tid=12009)
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HardiPlank - Smitty - 06-04-2013
I'm considering HardiPlank to cover some T-1-11 on 2nd Ave, HPP.Is this product suitable for the area or are there issues i should be aware of? Thx.
RE: HardiPlank - Carey - 06-04-2013
We have used HardiPanel inside (replaced all of the old paneling with it) and have replaced much of our exterior with it... it is heavy, so make sure your structure can handle the extra weight (minimum: SOLID 2x4 16"OC.... if you have had any termite activity, make sure the framework is still solid)
Make sure all cuts are primed (per the MFG instructions)... we have found that if you do not, grunge finds the cut edges...
Cutting... Scoring & snap is fairly easy...if you need to cut the plank (ie: outlets...which doing interior was a lot!) we have used a number of tools... RotoZip has lasted the best...
Attaching - use the approved screws... we tried other things... those work the best & make sure they are long enough to bite through the T1-11 & into the frame & seal those screw heads before applying the next plank row.....
We have used a stain that has HardiePanel listed....there are also paints...but make sure (would hate to do all that work only to have it PEEL!)
RE: HardiPlank - underarock - 06-04-2013
yes, hardiplank is ideal for this area. it's concrete-like so it holds up to the weather/salt very well. two contractors tried to talk us out of it because it was more work for them (claiming it was more expensive) When I pushed to tell me how much more expensive it was actually cheaper (at least it was 5 years ago)
RE: HardiPlank - Smitty - 06-04-2013
I see it comes in different colours, if i don't paint it will it repel the salt or could this damage the product?
RE: HardiPlank - underarock - 06-04-2013
my neighbors waited 3 years to paint theirs and it wasn't a problem. It will just show nail holes and the area where they overlap needs to be caulked and that will show
RE: HardiPlank - EightFingers - 06-05-2013
You need to be careful about installation as to the way you nail and how large gaps should be to allow for expansion/shrinkage.
Go to this website to find out more: http://www.jameshardie.com/main.shtml
RE: HardiPlank - Kapohocat - 06-08-2013
quote:
Originally posted by underarock
my neighbors waited 3 years to paint theirs and it wasn't a problem. It will just show nail holes and the area where they overlap needs to be caulked and that will show
....
yes, hardiplank is ideal for this area. it's concrete-like so it holds up to the weather/salt very well. two contractors tried to talk us out of it because it was more work for them (claiming it was more expensive) When I pushed to tell me how much more expensive it was actually cheaper (at least it was 5 years ago)
To do it right, hardiplank is more labor intensive, and if paying someone to do it, then of course more expensive labor-wise. You can call home depot or HPM and get the SF pricing for the material itself.
Also regarding the above statement about nail holes: Hardiplanks look much better blind nailed, and then caulked on the edges and caulked common to the trim before you paint. And again, if a slob does the caulking, you will have a slobby mess. The caulking needs a steady hand.
I think the hardiplanks look great when installed properly and much nicer than generic t-111. In addition, there are different heights of HP's so you can get one that is proportional to your wall height. We have 1 8' exterior wall (and it was the only place getting HP's) so we went with the 6" planks so it looks better than the 8" on that short exterior wall.
RE: HardiPlank - hotinhawaii - 06-14-2013
Screws are not recommended for fastening Hardiepanel or Hardielap siding. Nails are recommended by the manufacturer. There are pneumatic siding nails made just for this. I would go the extra mile and get the stainless steel ones. These nails have a thin flat head and will lie almost flush with the surface of the panel. You may not have to patch the holes before painting if using Hardipanel. They also work very well for blind nailing. A regular framing nail will bite into the board and will more easily rip through it.
RE: HardiPlank - Carey - 06-14-2013
From the James Hardi website on "Best Practices" recommends nails for studs (wood or metal ) - for 7/16 OSB OR EQUIVALENT - they recommend 1-5/8'' long ribbed wafer head no. 8 screws or 6d nails on their attachment page 3 (as the T1-11 is more close to OSB than a stud, I made the leap...but if attached to wood studs, they recommend nails, or to metal studs, either screws OR nails, PER THEIR SPECS):
http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/best-practices/hz/hz10-2012-v6-1-hardiepanel.pdf
The sealing of the nail/screwheads is only practical, for this area, as most attachments (even stainless) get some weather corrosion here...& that corrosion can eat into the screws & nails with detrimental effects to your paint, and the strength of your attachement.
RE: HardiPlank - hotinhawaii - 06-15-2013
Thanks Carey. I hadn't seen that before. I had only noticed page 113 where they seem to recommend nails.