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+--- Thread: Cinder/Gravel Question (/showthread.php?tid=9481)
RE: Cinder/Gravel Question - OrchidIslander - 11-09-2011
I've lived many places, but never one where the people so easily share with one another. I thank you all for your advice and input.
We've narrowed our choices down to gravel - absolutely no one wanted to deal with cinder - and perhaps paving.
Rene your advice regarding driveway prep was invaluable, and Scott most of my family thinks like you. Pave it and be done with it. Of course none of them is ponying up any cash whatsoever.
I hate to milk this thread for all is worth, but if anyone can recommend reputable paving companies or individuals - I'm all ears.
Thanks again for the time and insights. I've been here almost 8 years and have always thought that as beautiful as this place is, the people here are among this island's best feature.
Thanks again,
Mike in HPP
RE: Cinder/Gravel Question - Greg - 11-09-2011
For putting down roads and driveways, "base course" which is crushed blue rock is best. It doesn't wash away as easily and comes in different sizes.
Red Cinder works best for architectural applications and can be compacted to become more solid. It will not wash away as fast as black cinder.
Black Cinder is preferred(by me[8D])for agricultural applications as it stays loose and doesn't pack down so easily. It's porosity helps retain water and when mixed with dirt is a good planting medium.
My humble opinions from working Ag, building, and dakine.
RE: Cinder/Gravel Question - MarkP - 11-09-2011
Everyone I have spoken to says stay away from cinders for driveway use. Get base course. I have gotten a few small loads of base course and one load of cinders from Puna Rock in my Ford Ranger. Don't know how it happened but I wound up with cinders in the cab. I think they blew in there through the rear slider window. I now believe everything bad said about how cinders don't stay where you want them. Meanwhile the base course packs down nicely.
I called a guy named Jim of JimDee Management Corp. (landline 968-6482, cell 938-1649). He has his own truck and picks up materials wherever it works out best price-wise. The cost was for materials plus $100 for him and the truck. He spreads the materials for you and that is extremely valuable. He is a master at it. For $200 I got a 14 ton load of something called AC reject from Glover for $5/ton. The price can't be beat but the stuff has clumps of asphalt in it since it is an unsifted mixture of gravel and silt that they use to clean out the giant asphalt mixing equipment at the end of the day. That makes it harder to spread evenly and Jim was adamant that he wouldn't be responsible if big clumps blocked the gate and resulted in uneven coverage. I must have gotten lucky because the driveway looked like someone had gone over it with a road grader when Jim was done.
The A/C reject was OK for a first course, but someday I intend to put down a second layer of base-course and I will call Jim to do it. The A/C reject was $5/ton, the base course was $17.50/ton, and the cinders were $42/ton. I can't stress enough how well it worked being spread by the truck. It would have taken me a month to do the job by hand and it wouldn't have turned out as well.
RE: Cinder/Gravel Question - Kapohocat - 11-09-2011
quote:
Originally posted by MarkP...
I called a guy named Jim of JimDee Management Corp. (landline 968-6482, cell 938-1649).
I second this recommendation. I have known Jim for +15 years and he does a nice job. He did many of the rock deliveries for the Acres for years.
RE: Cinder/Gravel Question - LastTangoInPuna - 11-09-2011
You can haul in your own vehicle from either of Sanfords quarrys. You simply pay by the ton.
RE: Cinder/Gravel Question - MarkP - 11-09-2011
Same with Puna Rock
RE: Cinder/Gravel Question - DanielP - 11-10-2011
Building a paved driveway over soil is not so simple done right. The subgrade must be graded,shaped, and compcted. Then base course rolled and shaped.
I would suggest using basecourse, "tailgated". Drive on it for a year and then "sweeten" it with more basecourse every few years.
Look for soft spots which need to be drained. Driving on it will compact it and sweetening it every few years will start to build the crown over time.
Dan
RE: Cinder/Gravel Question - Kahunascott - 11-10-2011
quote:Cinders are sold by the CY and all the other materials are sold by the ton.
Originally posted by LastTangoInPuna
You can haul in your own vehicle from either of Sanfords quarrys. You simply pay by the ton.
If you think health care is expensive now, wait until you see what it cost when it’s free...now here come the taxes.....
RE: Cinder/Gravel Question - tada - 11-10-2011
I'm taking notes.
How do you prevent the the gravel from washing away? Can you set up steel wire fencing to mark the borders? So long as you can pound in the stakes. It's the cheapest I could think of.
RE: Cinder/Gravel Question - Royall - 11-10-2011
Six years ago I used red cinders for my driveway. The neighbor laughed at me for doing it! It was cheap and looked "pretty". Then the rains of 2006 hit! ALL the red not only wash down and off my driveway but out onto the road, down the hill towards the stop sign, but off the road and into the jungle! Cinder float wonderfully! I then used base course gravel with the fines and it has never washed away again. Unless you are on a VERY steep hill, I don't think you'll need anything to hold it. Might be wise to drive back and forth over it many times to compact it if the weather is looking threatening when it goes down. Just my 2 1/2 cents worth.
Royall
Hale O Na Mea Pa`ani