Diluting concrete with water to make it workable - Printable Version +- Punaweb Forum (http://punaweb.org/forum) +-- Forum: Punaweb Forums (http://punaweb.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=3) +--- Forum: Building in Puna (http://punaweb.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=12) +--- Thread: Diluting concrete with water to make it workable (/showthread.php?tid=13185) |
RE: Diluting concrete with water to make it workable - Haaheo okole puka - 02-20-2014 quote: Nice... I didn't see that. It's been about 15 years since I worked out here (Kona side) professionally speaking. I recently ordered a minimum 3 yard (as I recall) 4k batch from the Pahoa yard. I used it for my cesspool lid. The lid is 12" thick but I had no problems screeding the top off after vibrating it. I would have needed additional water but could have added it topside if was after a smoother finish. It's nice to hear they are mixing above the cited test. Over hydrating out here has obviously been accounted for to some reasonable degree. RE: Diluting concrete with water to make it workable - unknownjulie - 02-20-2014 If there is 4,000 psi concrete, why does anyone order any less? RE: Diluting concrete with water to make it workable - Rob Tucker - 02-20-2014 Because lower strength concrete costs less money. RE: Diluting concrete with water to make it workable - Seeb - 02-20-2014 The simple solution is to be hire an experienced and reputable crew RE: Diluting concrete with water to make it workable - unknownjulie - 02-20-2014 Ah, yes, Seeb, but that costs money. I am doing things on a shoestring and that means I have to learn/supervise/figure out- stuff on my own... This forum is awesome for that! I'll be getting 4,000 psi concrete for sure. Thanks so much to everyone for the info! RE: Diluting concrete with water to make it workable - Seeb - 02-20-2014 I have an old concrete apprentice book around here somewhere if you want to borrow. RE: Diluting concrete with water to make it workable - Haaheo okole puka - 02-20-2014 That's a big task Julie and its one that's not forgiving. I would imagine within todays building environment you can find some experienced concrete people with tools who are willing to do side jobs for a reasonable cost. Read about it and then run an add on Craigslist for a couple knowledgeable people that have the necessary tools on hand. If you're doing a slab any larger than say 4'X8' hire some pros willing to do it on the side. A minimum order is 3 yards in Pahoa and I believe 4 yards in Hilo regardless of what you use. That's a pad in Hilo with 4 yards at 4" thick being 336sf. (less footing) 4x8 is only 32sf... Pros will make it look easy but I can assure it's not if you've no prior hands on experience. Not even the form work is simple around here, not in this lava. You'll need to work fast and hard during a pour, there's no time for breaks or questions, pedicures, etc and the concrete drivers time is more money beyond X time limit. If you're doing some basic footings (cant imagine you'll need much concrete though), give her a go. If it's a foundation, don't even try it without a pro involved. Also the mixers chute is only so long and if every place needed to pour is not readily accessible by truck and its short chute, you'll need a pumper truck too and those hoses are damn heavy and the pumper truck is additional money. Most the time a boom pump is used and those are real expensive. You're very likely in for a whole lot of surprises going it alone. The logistics alone are a big factor in concrete. RE: Diluting concrete with water to make it workable - Haaheo okole puka - 02-20-2014 Come to think of it, if you're pouring under a house that's up on jacks... you'll need a pumper truck with hose along with the concrete truck. Who's going to drag that hose around and guide the pour? Who's going to vibrate and who's going to work the grade and finish? That's a minimum 3-5 man crew with know-how experience. RE: Diluting concrete with water to make it workable - DanielP - 02-21-2014 At a concrete seminar that I attended years ago, we were urged to use very little vibrating, as this tended to move the large aggregate down lower into the slab, thus creating weakness. Plasticizers may be ordered in the mix to make it more workable without adding water. Also, highly emphasized, was to let the bleed water escape (evaporate and percolate downward*) before floating and finishing. and never add water, after the slab is placed, except as a fine mist, to slow excessive evaporation. Do not trowel water down into the finish burn. * If plastic sheeting is used under the slab, it should be used under a layer of compacted base course, to allow the bleed water to escape uniformly by evaporation and percolation. When vibrating, use quick stabs and move along, so as not to allow the large aggregate to liquify and sink to the bottom. RE: Diluting concrete with water to make it workable - unknownjulie - 02-21-2014 I am hiring someone to do it, but since he is cheap there is always more risk involved. It is a fairly small pour- but the site prep is the hardest part, and I'll be there eyeballing the entire thing. I am having someone build all the forms. There will be more people here when the truck actually arrives. I agree this is a hugely complicated job and it is very stressful to consider all the pieces involved to make it work out. I do not want to do it, but the piers are sitting on rocks and are not stable. I can put my hand underneith them. The support beams are dryrotted and termite gouged. It has to be done, and it could cost a fortune to "hire a highly successful contractor". I just have to do the research ahead of time, have a good plan- and then pray. |