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Just remember the structural part of the darn things are the corner posts (look at how they stack them full), with the floor frame and top rails as "stabilizers". Remember other postings where they added posts on each side of large openings to maintain the structural integrity. Next time you are at a Lumber Yard, find a Simpson Strong Wall catalog and you,will get the idea. I've run a wind load program on a CAD drawing with cut outs, as I saw one on the 'net and said I can find a way, NOT! Major fail without strengthening posts. On the plan I mentioned above, someday I might put a pitched roof on it by using beams from each corner to a central peak, and steel rod/turnbuckle collar ties, metal roof, cut the ceiling out of the container. Still thinkin on that one tho. The possibilities are endless on these things from utilitarian to even using Soy based spray insulation in the "web" of the exterior panel, then a vapor barrier and siding of your choice. Best of luck on your design and keep us posted, those of us that have built them, share story!
Are you a human being, or a human doing?
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I wonder, could you use spray on foam on the exterior? Could you paint the foam to protect it from the sun? If so that might be the answer to economically insulating and finishing the container. I mean the painted foam would be all there was, no additional materials, just spray on the foam and spray on the paint. Otherwise I see it as being too expensive for what you get.
The last 2 mornings I have woken up sweating. The rising sun is hitting the east end of the container. Ironically it is cooler later in the day when the sun is directly overhead, as the roof takes the direct sun. Not the roof of the container (that would be worse than the walls), the roof I built over the container.
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Sorry to be slow. Yes, it is a spray on type insulation. If make a watertight barrier over it all will be fine. there is a Soy based similar to the spray foam you can buy at handy land of your choice, but what I've seen is a 50 gal drum W/air lees type spray. Another type is shredded blue jeans with a non flam beeswax coating. Easy to scrape clean, dump back in the hopper and re use. Sprays like textured ceiling stuff. Tavel or 6 mil plastic barrier bonded to top rail w/ edge flashing pop riveted in, sun cover material over plastic, good to go! Even seen stucco applied over the insulation.
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I see some important negatives with using an EXTERIOR spray on foam as it relates to shipping containers, and more specifically, 'steel' containers:
1. The nature of the foam is both it's virtue and it's downfall. Because it 'encapsulates' whatever it is applied to, IF there are any voids, whether formed by poor application OR any other external force, if those voids get moisture in them, they will promote rusting of the steel at that particular location and you'll NEVER see it coming since the foam will hide it.
2. Applying foam CAN BE, but is more than likely not a particularly accurate method and so the finish surface will appear lumpy, hilly, and hummocky. In other words, the finish surface MUST BE worked to get the desired results.
3. The foam itself is not especially water proof and so a best case scenario would be to apply a liquid EPDM/Rubber over it. However, this kind of application also prevents moisture transfer causing (potentially) interior build-up of moisture on the walls (AGAIN, as it relates to steel OR aluminum containers). Not to mention the high cost of the liquid EPDM/Rubber materials; about $3.50-5.50 per Square Foot which INCLUDES labor by a professional installation technician ~ ~ ~
jus' sayin'
Punanny
Kaihekili
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The recycled cotton insulation breathes, but needs a water barrier and some sort of siding over. Inside insulation is always preferred, using a metal 2x2 "stud" to put sheeting to hold or protect insulation. I found good ceiling ventilation is the key, as "stock" vents don't do squidly. Look at how much breathabilty you get with a Vent right type vent caulked and pop riveted on top?
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Hi,
I am thinking about making a combo house with a container on the bottom with a couple of bedrooms and adding on a wood second story with a metal roof with the living/kitchen area and a deck. Seems like a good way to to make a 2 story house that is affordable...
Has anyone here tried this? or something like this with any success? If so was it cheaper then doing it post and pier?
Mahalo,
Lynne
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I considered that but figured you are not saving a lot over building the wood structure at ground level. The roof of the container is not strong so you would have to span from side to side with joists.
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Containers are not necessarily "better" (everything is a trade-off) but they can be "faster" or "cheaper" if they're shipped here full of building materials purchased at mainland prices.
My personal favorite is the "deck over two containers" strategy...
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My point is that people tend to look at the container as a uniformly strong box, one that can be loaded on any of its surfaces. This is no more true of a container than it is of a car. You would not jump around on the roof of your car just because it is a large open surface like the sidewalk. Unlike the sidewalk it is not designed to support foot traffic. It was made no stronger than absolutely necessary. Neither is the roof of the container. Walk on one. It is pretty springy. I wouldn't have more than a couple of people at a time standing on it. You also don't want to wear through the paint by walking on it. So the question arises of just how the presence of the container down there benefits you if you have to build as though it isn't there.
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how the presence of the container down there benefits you
Depends how the container(s) are used, whether their cost-benefit ratio exceeds that of other construction methods (eg, post-n-pier for an 8' platform), and depending how the containers are purchased.
Random datapoint: last time I was on the mainland, I saw sliding glass doors for $150 at a surplus warehouse -- maybe this doesn't work out "cheaper" with shipping, but it could make for an interesting glass house.
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