03-22-2022, 06:00 PM
Breaker from panels to charge controller rated at least 1.5x the panel Imp. Breaker from charge controller to battery bank.
If inverter, class T fuse between battery bank and inverter.
Automotive fuses are rated for 32VDC, they make a fine choice for DC distribution and sometimes the solar/charge side. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P6FTHC/
The little 1/8-hp water pumps are available in 24VDC. They are also available in 110VAC. In this case, two fuses, one at the battery (to protect the wiring) and one at the pump (to protect the pump). Example: 20A fuse at battery, 10-ga run to pump, 10A fuse at pump. (Note the oversized wire to compensate for the load.)
This arrangement is especially important for any device with a "death spiral". A 100W pump will draw 8.3A at 12V but the amperage draw will increase (W = V x A) as voltage drops (eg, marginal batteries). If there is no fuse to cut this short, the pump will flatten the batteries. Also important with flourescent ballasts (I like the IOTA) but nobody uses those anymore.
My favorite for low-voltage wiring is landscape lighting cable. Fine strands, thick jacket, UV-safe for outdoors. It's available in a 10ga for heavy loads (the pump) but the lighter 12ga is plenty LED lighting.
Regular light switches are NOT rated for DC but they work perfectly well for small loads like LED lighting. With plastic zip boxes and switchplates, it's possible to rig up DC LED lighting that looks totally normal. Wired a shack this way.
If inverter, class T fuse between battery bank and inverter.
Automotive fuses are rated for 32VDC, they make a fine choice for DC distribution and sometimes the solar/charge side. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P6FTHC/
The little 1/8-hp water pumps are available in 24VDC. They are also available in 110VAC. In this case, two fuses, one at the battery (to protect the wiring) and one at the pump (to protect the pump). Example: 20A fuse at battery, 10-ga run to pump, 10A fuse at pump. (Note the oversized wire to compensate for the load.)
This arrangement is especially important for any device with a "death spiral". A 100W pump will draw 8.3A at 12V but the amperage draw will increase (W = V x A) as voltage drops (eg, marginal batteries). If there is no fuse to cut this short, the pump will flatten the batteries. Also important with flourescent ballasts (I like the IOTA) but nobody uses those anymore.
My favorite for low-voltage wiring is landscape lighting cable. Fine strands, thick jacket, UV-safe for outdoors. It's available in a 10ga for heavy loads (the pump) but the lighter 12ga is plenty LED lighting.
Regular light switches are NOT rated for DC but they work perfectly well for small loads like LED lighting. With plastic zip boxes and switchplates, it's possible to rig up DC LED lighting that looks totally normal. Wired a shack this way.