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Interesting, what is the upgrade?
If one needs a lightweight fence, rebar wire (and the rebar wire tool) work as fast as a cable tie. They are $15 for 1000 wire ties, though I don't know how they hold up in our weather. The rolls of wire are near the rebar, the tool used for them is a hidden near the "pro" desk.
In some places where I didn't need a strong fence and had unripped lava rock to deal with, I've used 1" galvanized electrical conduit and a 3/4" masonry bit. The tubes are easy to pound in with a post driver and you can strengthen them by pouring wet concrete into them. It takes surprising little concrete to fill a 5' length.
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what is the upgrade?
I forget what they're called (ask Miranda's). Conventional clips are galvanized steel (which coating can be damaged during installation), these have a different treatment.
rebar wire (and the rebar wire tool) work as fast as a cable tie
Rusts immediately.
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We did our acre ourselves, we are a couple in their early sixties. We read on another post to get a hammer drill we got one that is corded so it had more power. We rented a bobcat to clear the fence line and had to do some hand clearing. It took us two weeks, just working half days but it cost 1500 instead of 15000.
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Great and invaluable advice here, Terracore. That said, the prices you cite are solid when you consider all that has to go into it. That's about what we figured it out to be when my husband was doing that kind of work on this side. Then he figured Hamakua Coast was the only place he really felt like doing fencing
DIRT!
Melissa Fletcher
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"Make yurts, not war" Bill Coperthwaite, 1973
Melissa Fletcher
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"Make yurts, not war" Bill Coperthwaite, 1973
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Great info, just copied and pasted!!! Mahalo
quote:
Originally posted by kalakoa
If I were doing it all over again...
1. Definitely rip a "racetrack" a few feet inside the perimeter. For a few dollars more, rip a second "inside" lane for planting trees. Leave the fenceline intact, posts tend to be less secure in ripped rock.
2. Buy an electric jackhammer + hammer drill (and a big enough generator) instead of renting the equipment. (If you really don't need it afterwards, post on craiglist.)
3. Wooden posts only seem cheaper... by the time you paint the end with tar (and maybe paint the top after installation) and dig a bigger hole/use more concrete to set the post ... metal is a better investment. It's cheaper by the 21' length, get a pipe rack (or borrow a friend's truck) and cut into thirds with a sawzall. Make sure to put a cap on the top.
4. Galvanized everything. Buy several cans of "cold galvanizing" spray and touch up every cut end, tool mark, etc as you go. (The tall cans from Home Depot are less expensive.)
5. Amazon has a complete selection of fencing tools (winch, pounder, mini bolt cutters, etc).
6. Fence and wire can be spliced with crimp sleeves -- this might be stating the obvious, but it's worth pointing out, I was able to solve a couple of "interesting" problems this way, totally worth the price of the crimping tool.
7. Miranda's has aluminum tie wires for securing fence/wire to metal posts. This can be done by hand but there are wire bending tools for the purpose, bruised fingers/thumbs are unpleasant. (Grab an extra bag of these, they're really useful for all kinds of things.)
8. Make sure the actual fenceline is 6-12" inside the survey markers -- cheaper than any possible future dispute, such as when neighbors rip their lot pin-to-pin and damage your fence...
"Let yourself be silently drawn by the strange pull of what you really love" RUMI
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quote:
Originally posted by kalakoa
what is the upgrade?
I forget what they're called (ask Miranda's). Conventional clips are galvanized steel (which coating can be damaged during installation), these have a different treatment.
rebar wire (and the rebar wire tool) work as fast as a cable tie
Rusts immediately.
I've recently started using stainless steel cable ties for quick fence installs/repairs. They sell them at Home Depot but they are prohibitively expensive there. I found this 100 pack at amazon that make their cost ~12 cents each. You might be able to find them cheaper than that. The ones I installed several months ago don't have any sign of rust. Considering they are made for corrosive exhaust / salt etc environments I'm guessing they will last in our acid rain. (Their original application was for car exhaust systems).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTKBTH2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=fb0c6d-20&linkId=7f03d441a1fa8cec0149a2daa4752f4a
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My father in law buys fencing from a special fencing store. He fences thousands of acres for reforestation. He says the feed stores are way over priced. BTW fencing is pretty simple once you know how to do it.
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Care to tell where he gets the fencing?
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Its a secret. Kidding. I had to wait for him to get home to ask but he said it's called "Animal Health" in Waimea. According to him it is the cheapest place to buy fencing.
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I used stainless steel zip ties on my gate 3 years ago, they're holding up well.
I ordered more from eBay (China), but they're defective--you can't slip the end into the clasp.
Got good ones from Amazon.
