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Owner Builder with a few Questions
#1
Hello folks Ive been lurking on the boards, soaking up as much info and leads as possible. I must say this forum is a invaluable resource and Im thankful for its members and referrals.

Ive finally got my lot, (Hawaiian beaches), had Paul (ex tech) clear it and drop in the septic system. Got my water meter in at the street, and had my 2 bd 2 ba 900 Sq ft house plans submitted for review and build permits as of 12/20. Im told a few weeks, that sound correct?

I have framing experience so I went with the owner builder permit, Im confident when it comes time to frame, and finish the house. But Im not confident with the Foundation, Plumbing and Electrical. They need to be hired GCs anyway so that works.

Now for the Questions... (Im building this home out of pocket cash in phases, no construction loans etc.)

1. At what points exactly do I need Inspections?

2. Ive got bids for slab, and bids for plumbing. Who goes first? lol I mean I know the pipes will need to be placed under the slab, before its poured, but do I have the foundation guy set the forms 1st and then have the plumber come set pipes? or vice versa? or does it matter? I know there is a inspection before pouring for waste pipes and rebar correct?

3. Do I need a permit for trenches for the pipes, inspections before refilling? does the fill need to be done in a special way or just filled in?

4. How the heck does a solar hot water heater work? 4k from helco and 1200 to install? Im pretty good on a $5200 hot water heater? why is it that my architect says I must use one rather than a $400 electric one?

5. Has anyone used HPM to construct there wall panels, and deliver to jobsite. I know I said Im a framer but its appeals to me to have all the panels built and just tie them together in a day on a simple square structure like the one Im building. Is it cost effectient? Can they build metal stud walls?

6. Windows - Who makes em, and installs em best place to buy any thoughts?

7. Termite plugs, were recommended to me for underslab, what are they how do you install them?

Im having the most anxiety about the foundation and pre foundation stage and inspections that go with it.. Im trying to plan accordingly to build a complete locking shell, with water and plumbing working, and go from there slowly to complete the construction over a year or 2. Trying to get everything in order to go smooth from slab to locking shell with enough cash to complete it is daunting. Im close but dont want to run into any major surprises

Thanks for your input in advance.

Jason
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#2
Aloha,

The solar water heater was made into a law for all new construction - only exception I think is older properties with grandfathered permits. It'll be worth the cost for your peace of mind living peacefully with the environment or aina as the locals call it. Also it'll be a nice talking point / bragging point for your mainland chums.

HPM will do the walls paneled for you saving lots of time. I hear build a stick house standard is to get it tented every 2 years here for termites. Might want to think about using wood as your building material. At over 100% humidity 24/7 365 and with regular 2 year tenting of your home maybe it would be worthwhile to look into a different material.

Also, foundation - have you looked into the post/pier method popular in the area? It could remedy / assuage all your anxiety over the foundation to go with post/pier - also does your area flood? One of the main reasons some prefer post/pier to a poured slab foundation. Also as an owner builder it may be easier to do the post/pier yourself - and cheaper?

I'd look into concrete and steel frame houses. Thats what I wouls build if I was going to be fully permitted no hesitation.

If not interested in concrete/steel but still wanting to permit I'd build with post/pier and try and be as mimimal as possible - in every aspect.


Also don't forget to budget in a substantial allocation of funds for landscaping. Trust me. You want your little slice of paradise to actually look like paradise.
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#3
Thanks Jim!

I do have steel framing and asked for concrete board after reading up on the site before designing. My architect ran into sheer strength issues when I asked to use concrete board instead of treated plywood? I guess I rolled over on that fight pretty easy in favor of what he wanted.. or should I say knew how to design. Im happy with my architect and plans tho, Learned your exactly correct about the solar hot water heaters, and grandfathering. Is there any downside to the solar hot water heaters, ie: cold showers on overcast days lol

I did try and design this house as minimal as possible 28x32 square. Im about to drop deposits on making this shell a reality just up late nowadays with a whole new respect for the coordinating a GC has to do.. ha
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#4
In regards to solar water heater,

Yes, after prolonged overcast skies temp will drop

Once you have it installed, inspected, and finalled nothing and no one is stopping you from disconnecting it and running an electruc or gas/propane on-demand water heater.
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#5
#4. Solar water heater or solar PV (grid tie or stand alone) plus flash heaters are OK, and some others... best to check on what is before you submit.

#6. Windows - simple custom sliders & jalousie - ALumside in Hilo. We have a mix of awning mfg - like the Coastal stack window we have with the stainless hardware the best... even far away from the ocean, our makai side of the house gets rust in the mechanism.... and awning windowsx can be left open in a rain storm without soaking anything inside....
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#6
quote:
Originally posted by Carey

#4. Solar water heater or solar PV (grid tie or stand alone) plus flash heaters are OK, and some others... best to check on what is before you submit.

#6. Windows - simple custom sliders & jalousie - ALumside in Hilo. We have a mix of awning mfg - like the Coastal stack window we have with the stainless hardware the best... even far away from the ocean, our makai side of the house gets rust in the mechanism.... and awning windowsx can be left open in a rain storm without soaking anything inside....


Solar hot water will cost (net) about $1700 after all the tax credits and rebates, assuming you are filing taxes. Depending on usage, it will pay for itself in two years or so, then you'll have free hot water for life. The systems have electricity as a backup source of hot water for those times when you get several cloudy days in a row (like now). Get the largest tank size that you can afford. I think they are 80 or 120 gallons. A 120 gallon heater with a couple or a small family will store enough hot water that you would probably never need to use electric. We have the electric option on ours shut off and just deal with the cooler hot water when we get to day 4 or so of cloud cover. Turning it on for about 5 minutes is all you need to do to make enough hot water for a decent shower. That way you're only using 5 minutes worth of electricity at most doing that a handful of times each year. It does make hot water when its cloudy, just not very much of it. If you get an hour or so of sun break each day is really all you need.
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#7
Can't you get an exemption to the solar water heater requirement if you have several propane appliances, such as propane water heater, propane range?
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#8
Thanks for the replies,

I have a new question and an answer to one of my one. I spoke to HPM today about fabricating wall panels, was told they do not build panels with steel studs at this time. Answers that.

My new question is how do you go about making a change or altering a building plan or material AFTER a building permit has been issued?
I know this sort of thing can be location-specific. will inspector just look at whether we built to code, and not to plan or material? Obviously I would never to tear down and rebuild, or get on the bad side of my inspector. Only reason Im asking is because Im running numbers in having SIPS built as opposed to stick framing. Im considering changing my plan from steel studs to wood to save quite a bit on labor with pre manufactured wall panels from HPM. ( i know about the humidity, termites, tenting, etc and its is a large factor in my decision.) Just wondering how difficult it would be to change stud material from steel to wood? already have gone through plan review & building permit any thoughts?
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#9
quote:
Originally posted by Nancy Fryhover

Can't you get an exemption to the solar water heater requirement if you have several propane appliances, such as propane water heater, propane range?


There is an exemption process if you live somewhere with inadequate sun to heat the water. But the bigger question is, why would you opt for fossil fuel when the sun is free? Avoid the up-front cost is probably the answer. Building codes have never had anything to with saving money.
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#10
There is an exemption for using, I believe, two gas appliances in the home - stove and water heater.
Assume the best and ask questions.

Punaweb moderator
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