02-09-2019, 08:00 AM
Some day when I get everything permanently installed I plan to do a virtual tour of the system with pictures etc but for now it looks more like a fire hazard.
Currently I have the three arrays on the roof where one is oriented for morning/noon sun and the other two for afternoon/evening. This allows me to start using the solar from about 0800am to 0530pm though if it is clear I can start it sooner or end it later.
The grid power is hooked to a cheap digital "smart" wifi plug. "Smart" means that it is programmable through phone app and can be controlled anywhere my phone has a cell or wifi signal. So I can switch from grid to solar power using my phone even if I'm not home. It also tracks electricity usage. When the plug cuts off the grid power the following transfer switch switches to inverter power:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S5...tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=pw016-20&linkId=d25f751e8e2fa370169bbd6859b72822&language=en_US
I have a second transfer switch that monitors the battery voltage and if it gets too low it switches from inverter back to grid power. The unit is programmable, when the voltage rises back to whatever level I select it switches back to solar/battery power again:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D41...tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=pw016-20&linkId=0245c717f32d554d2f091e5ed915895f&language=en_US
The transfer switch is more variable than how it is marketed, for example you could use it to turn on a battery charger instead. Or to only operate some loads when your batteries are fully charged and at float, so as to not let excess power "go to waste". I currently use my "excess" power for an LED grow light so my extra power is effectively turned into salad greens, however I am currently just turning the light on manually until my system is further developed.
I am currently using the system to power a chest freezer (it only runs during solar hours so it is 100% solar powered, it only gets back up to about 12 degrees from being off all night), UV water sterilization unit, pump for solar hot water system, side-by-side kitchen refrigerator, and everything in my office (DVR for security system, modem/router, computer, monitor, etc). It shaves about 30% off my monthly electricity bill.
After Iselle I had my house wired to accept power from a generator with the grid lockout per code. I can use the same generator inlet to run the entire house off my hybrid solar system for power outages etc using the following adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PW...tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=pw016-20&linkId=68f347b2d11b64aa033516490e5b082e&language=en_US (just make sure not to turn "on" any 220v circuits on the electrical panel or else they would be running on a "brownout" or more than likely would trigger inverter's overload shutoff). I put red markers on the panel switches that control the stove etc to remind me not to turn them on.
I have a 2,000 watt pure sine wave inverter with a 20 amp outlet. The normal draws on it are about 600 watts total and almost 700 watts with the LED grow light on. During punishing heat I turn the grow light off and run a 6000 BTU air conditioner if there is enough sun to power it, or about 1100 watts total. Anything more than that and my panels can't keep up.
The system is flexible in it's use and power storage is expandable. It is a backup power source at the same time it pays for itself by giving me sub $100 electricity bills.
During extended power outages I can run the whole house off the system as described above if I need to, keeping combined draws within the inverter's capability of course, and replenish battery draws at night using a 40 amp charger (~500ish watts) connected to either small generator or even a vehicle with a 1,000 watt inverter. The batteries supply the occasional power draws above that amount, and get topped off when it's below that amount. (Much quieter and fuel efficient than a big whole-house gas generator). Or I can just shut a lot of stuff off and go batteries only for as long as that lasts.
Currently I have the three arrays on the roof where one is oriented for morning/noon sun and the other two for afternoon/evening. This allows me to start using the solar from about 0800am to 0530pm though if it is clear I can start it sooner or end it later.
The grid power is hooked to a cheap digital "smart" wifi plug. "Smart" means that it is programmable through phone app and can be controlled anywhere my phone has a cell or wifi signal. So I can switch from grid to solar power using my phone even if I'm not home. It also tracks electricity usage. When the plug cuts off the grid power the following transfer switch switches to inverter power:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S5...tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=pw016-20&linkId=d25f751e8e2fa370169bbd6859b72822&language=en_US
I have a second transfer switch that monitors the battery voltage and if it gets too low it switches from inverter back to grid power. The unit is programmable, when the voltage rises back to whatever level I select it switches back to solar/battery power again:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D41...tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=pw016-20&linkId=0245c717f32d554d2f091e5ed915895f&language=en_US
The transfer switch is more variable than how it is marketed, for example you could use it to turn on a battery charger instead. Or to only operate some loads when your batteries are fully charged and at float, so as to not let excess power "go to waste". I currently use my "excess" power for an LED grow light so my extra power is effectively turned into salad greens, however I am currently just turning the light on manually until my system is further developed.
I am currently using the system to power a chest freezer (it only runs during solar hours so it is 100% solar powered, it only gets back up to about 12 degrees from being off all night), UV water sterilization unit, pump for solar hot water system, side-by-side kitchen refrigerator, and everything in my office (DVR for security system, modem/router, computer, monitor, etc). It shaves about 30% off my monthly electricity bill.
After Iselle I had my house wired to accept power from a generator with the grid lockout per code. I can use the same generator inlet to run the entire house off my hybrid solar system for power outages etc using the following adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PW...tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=pw016-20&linkId=68f347b2d11b64aa033516490e5b082e&language=en_US (just make sure not to turn "on" any 220v circuits on the electrical panel or else they would be running on a "brownout" or more than likely would trigger inverter's overload shutoff). I put red markers on the panel switches that control the stove etc to remind me not to turn them on.
I have a 2,000 watt pure sine wave inverter with a 20 amp outlet. The normal draws on it are about 600 watts total and almost 700 watts with the LED grow light on. During punishing heat I turn the grow light off and run a 6000 BTU air conditioner if there is enough sun to power it, or about 1100 watts total. Anything more than that and my panels can't keep up.
The system is flexible in it's use and power storage is expandable. It is a backup power source at the same time it pays for itself by giving me sub $100 electricity bills.
During extended power outages I can run the whole house off the system as described above if I need to, keeping combined draws within the inverter's capability of course, and replenish battery draws at night using a 40 amp charger (~500ish watts) connected to either small generator or even a vehicle with a 1,000 watt inverter. The batteries supply the occasional power draws above that amount, and get topped off when it's below that amount. (Much quieter and fuel efficient than a big whole-house gas generator). Or I can just shut a lot of stuff off and go batteries only for as long as that lasts.