05-09-2019, 11:50 AM
I'm thinking that I'm going to jack the temp up to about 130°F, take it off the timer, and see just what our electrical usage go up to.
Since getting a new meter that doesn't over charge us, we've been using pretty close to what we're producing, only being billed $20+/mo, the minimum grid charge.
Using the timer has been bringing our accumulated overage down 10 or more KWH/week.
@leilanidude
I am beginning to think about UV again.
But, that will increase power usage and will not bring the temps up.
We have no driving desire to change our drinking/cooking water source.
UV is not effective against our greatest concern: rat lung worm.
@Chunkster
Took a look at Drainpipe's web site.
They're estimating that an installation will cost about $6k.
They're saying that fed and state tax credits are still in effect.
I think they need to update their website.
Now that the state is requiring solar water heating on all new construction, I don't see them giving a tax credit.
It may be hard to justify without the credits.
@islandlvng
I had looked at the thermostat.
It's like a refrigerator, thermostat: Hot - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - Very Hot.
Going to the tank's manual, I find that Hot = 120°F.
Very Hot is probably 180°F.
I am going to have to justify adding solar.
@Punaperson
We are not getting rid of our PV installation.
We're just having it removed for a roof replacement.
It will be reinstalled after the new roof is finished.
The house we rented during our forced evacuation had on demand hot water.
It was gas fired.
Neither one of us liked it.
My present feeling is that I would never willingly have one installed in our home.
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Running at a higher temp and on a timer might be an alternative that will work.
It might be able to hold its temp above 120°F while dropping from the higher temp.
I'll give it a try to see how it does, maybe even with 2 heating periods per day.
It might take a little tuning to make it work, then again might not work.
Getting a good commercial quality jacketed 1-1/2" tank wrap insulation, and covering the tank with it would bring down the heat loss enormously.
Which brings the question:
Is there a Mechanical Insulation Contractor/supplier here on the island?
Since getting a new meter that doesn't over charge us, we've been using pretty close to what we're producing, only being billed $20+/mo, the minimum grid charge.
Using the timer has been bringing our accumulated overage down 10 or more KWH/week.
@leilanidude
I am beginning to think about UV again.
But, that will increase power usage and will not bring the temps up.
We have no driving desire to change our drinking/cooking water source.
UV is not effective against our greatest concern: rat lung worm.
@Chunkster
Took a look at Drainpipe's web site.
They're estimating that an installation will cost about $6k.
They're saying that fed and state tax credits are still in effect.
I think they need to update their website.
Now that the state is requiring solar water heating on all new construction, I don't see them giving a tax credit.
It may be hard to justify without the credits.
@islandlvng
I had looked at the thermostat.
It's like a refrigerator, thermostat: Hot - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - Very Hot.
Going to the tank's manual, I find that Hot = 120°F.
Very Hot is probably 180°F.
I am going to have to justify adding solar.
@Punaperson
We are not getting rid of our PV installation.
We're just having it removed for a roof replacement.
It will be reinstalled after the new roof is finished.
The house we rented during our forced evacuation had on demand hot water.
It was gas fired.
Neither one of us liked it.
My present feeling is that I would never willingly have one installed in our home.
---------------------------------
Running at a higher temp and on a timer might be an alternative that will work.
It might be able to hold its temp above 120°F while dropping from the higher temp.
I'll give it a try to see how it does, maybe even with 2 heating periods per day.
It might take a little tuning to make it work, then again might not work.
Getting a good commercial quality jacketed 1-1/2" tank wrap insulation, and covering the tank with it would bring down the heat loss enormously.
Which brings the question:
Is there a Mechanical Insulation Contractor/supplier here on the island?
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Was a Democrat until gun control became a knee jerk, then a Republican until the crazies took over, back to being a nonpartisan again.
This time, I can no longer participate in the primary.
Was a Democrat until gun control became a knee jerk, then a Republican until the crazies took over, back to being a nonpartisan again.
This time, I can no longer participate in the primary.