02-13-2009, 06:30 AM
(I have posted this as a new subject as well as on rain screen style of construction, since the topic has changed.)
Hotzcatz,
Thank you for your reply. I have read a lot of what you have written on this blog and have a feel for your honest straight forward mannerism...much appreciated!!!! I hope you don’t mind if I elaborate here and take advantage of your expertise and hopefully others as well.
Yes I have been looking at materials sourced locally, I do understand the importance of that. It appears the 4x8 Hardie Panel is available (blog source mentioned this) and the reveal for the edging that James Hardie recommends (manufacturer says that Honsador handles the Tamlyn brand, but I have not contacted them yet to make sure they actually handle these specific reveals.)
How are people installing Hardie Panel for siding and on soffits? Here is a PDF link from the James Hardie Commercial web site - In figure 2, H Joint, this shows the revel. Have you ever specified this, or anyone that you know of used this method of finishing the panels, or are they just caulking the seams?http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/install/install_panel_west.pdf
Here is another type of revel application:
http://jameshardiecommercial.com/hardie-...anel.shtml
I am one of those who would rather have the drywall, a clean smooth white wall for displaying art. Also, not really thrilled about using subfloor as a finished floor, although I did mention it to my husband as an area to compromise if we have to (perhaps using the concrete 4x8 T&G subfloor that Rob Tucker has mentioned), although would prefer a finished plywood for softness under feet, but we are trying to keep down the use of wood because of termites.
I am planning on taking advantage of the trade winds (have been listening to others on this blog and paying attention to their experience). We will be using a lot of windows, cross ventilation, limiting the southern exposure, venting the attic and providing some type of venting from the interior at the peak through the roof (skylight or equivalent... still researching that).
Also planning on 24" on ctr. studs, trusses, and joists, would like to use the light gauge steel. I am looking for a source on steel trusses. What I have designed right now is a scissor truss with 4' overhang, a 5:12 roof, and 3:12 ceiling. But yesterday I was reading the 1991 UBC Appenix Chap.25 on “prescriptive (doesn’t that mean required?) hurricane-resistant construction” and this threw me for a little loop http://www.hawaii-county.com/permits/hurricane.html
... it states that roof overhangs shall not exceed 3' (glad to hear you have specified 4' thus it must have passed code). It also talks about the exterior sheer walls at 4' min. at each corner (my design is not consistent with that either), and the exterior sheer wall width shall be at least half of the exterior wall length...oh dear, too many windows for that...we’ll perhaps need an engineer to specify ways around this without compromising the buildings integrity, and without changing the design too much.... It also states that 24"oc trusses require studs and joists to line up, this was my intent all along, but I have seen homes recently built in Hawaii that have 24"oc trusses with 16"oc studs...and it too obviously passed code?
Have thought about the Protec sips, but not sure we can use them, since our roof span with 4' overhangs will be 36' (18' to peak).... Also more importantly I have a few different floor plans I have been working on and one would require a 28' ridge beam, and the other would require a 24' beam to accommodate the sip panel...that is why I have been leaning towards trusses instead. As I am not sure if a long ridge beam is realistic on a budget, especially if it is out of steel. I will however price out this option if it makes any sense. I like the fact that on the Protec sip wall panels we could use the Senergy surfacing material that was specifically designed for their exterior finish (a stucco look), if available in Hawaii of course, then all this stuff about Hardie Panel would be unnecessary.
Right now I have to keep our options open and look at everything that could possibly work, only then will we be able to determine where to cut (compromise) and where to spend.
I will be able to draw up most of our plans, floor plans, elevations, I am however not sure about all of the detailed structural specifications, that is where we will probably need some help. I am able to visualize most anything, and can be very logical when pointed in the right direction. As far as drawing things up, my back ground is in interior design, furniture design, fine art, architectural renderings, and graphic design. I jumped around a lot, as I like new challenges, although that is s-l-o-w-i-n-g down as this body and mind get more worn out.
If you are interested I can send you some links that explain rain screen construction, it is cool if you are into a more modern/contemporary look. When it comes to modern architecture rain screen is what allows for design details that previously could not have be used. However it is used for traditional house design as well, as a major component to achieving a dry but breathable house envelope. Hummmm... maybe it is not used in Hawaii because houses are not sealed up so tightly, since preventing loss of heat is not an issue - okay.... well that certainly makes sense.
Sorry to expound so much, I appreciate your thoughts!
Barbara Taylor
Hawaii Dreaming
Hotzcatz,
Thank you for your reply. I have read a lot of what you have written on this blog and have a feel for your honest straight forward mannerism...much appreciated!!!! I hope you don’t mind if I elaborate here and take advantage of your expertise and hopefully others as well.
Yes I have been looking at materials sourced locally, I do understand the importance of that. It appears the 4x8 Hardie Panel is available (blog source mentioned this) and the reveal for the edging that James Hardie recommends (manufacturer says that Honsador handles the Tamlyn brand, but I have not contacted them yet to make sure they actually handle these specific reveals.)
How are people installing Hardie Panel for siding and on soffits? Here is a PDF link from the James Hardie Commercial web site - In figure 2, H Joint, this shows the revel. Have you ever specified this, or anyone that you know of used this method of finishing the panels, or are they just caulking the seams?http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/install/install_panel_west.pdf
Here is another type of revel application:
http://jameshardiecommercial.com/hardie-...anel.shtml
I am one of those who would rather have the drywall, a clean smooth white wall for displaying art. Also, not really thrilled about using subfloor as a finished floor, although I did mention it to my husband as an area to compromise if we have to (perhaps using the concrete 4x8 T&G subfloor that Rob Tucker has mentioned), although would prefer a finished plywood for softness under feet, but we are trying to keep down the use of wood because of termites.
I am planning on taking advantage of the trade winds (have been listening to others on this blog and paying attention to their experience). We will be using a lot of windows, cross ventilation, limiting the southern exposure, venting the attic and providing some type of venting from the interior at the peak through the roof (skylight or equivalent... still researching that).
Also planning on 24" on ctr. studs, trusses, and joists, would like to use the light gauge steel. I am looking for a source on steel trusses. What I have designed right now is a scissor truss with 4' overhang, a 5:12 roof, and 3:12 ceiling. But yesterday I was reading the 1991 UBC Appenix Chap.25 on “prescriptive (doesn’t that mean required?) hurricane-resistant construction” and this threw me for a little loop http://www.hawaii-county.com/permits/hurricane.html
... it states that roof overhangs shall not exceed 3' (glad to hear you have specified 4' thus it must have passed code). It also talks about the exterior sheer walls at 4' min. at each corner (my design is not consistent with that either), and the exterior sheer wall width shall be at least half of the exterior wall length...oh dear, too many windows for that...we’ll perhaps need an engineer to specify ways around this without compromising the buildings integrity, and without changing the design too much.... It also states that 24"oc trusses require studs and joists to line up, this was my intent all along, but I have seen homes recently built in Hawaii that have 24"oc trusses with 16"oc studs...and it too obviously passed code?
Have thought about the Protec sips, but not sure we can use them, since our roof span with 4' overhangs will be 36' (18' to peak).... Also more importantly I have a few different floor plans I have been working on and one would require a 28' ridge beam, and the other would require a 24' beam to accommodate the sip panel...that is why I have been leaning towards trusses instead. As I am not sure if a long ridge beam is realistic on a budget, especially if it is out of steel. I will however price out this option if it makes any sense. I like the fact that on the Protec sip wall panels we could use the Senergy surfacing material that was specifically designed for their exterior finish (a stucco look), if available in Hawaii of course, then all this stuff about Hardie Panel would be unnecessary.
Right now I have to keep our options open and look at everything that could possibly work, only then will we be able to determine where to cut (compromise) and where to spend.
I will be able to draw up most of our plans, floor plans, elevations, I am however not sure about all of the detailed structural specifications, that is where we will probably need some help. I am able to visualize most anything, and can be very logical when pointed in the right direction. As far as drawing things up, my back ground is in interior design, furniture design, fine art, architectural renderings, and graphic design. I jumped around a lot, as I like new challenges, although that is s-l-o-w-i-n-g down as this body and mind get more worn out.
If you are interested I can send you some links that explain rain screen construction, it is cool if you are into a more modern/contemporary look. When it comes to modern architecture rain screen is what allows for design details that previously could not have be used. However it is used for traditional house design as well, as a major component to achieving a dry but breathable house envelope. Hummmm... maybe it is not used in Hawaii because houses are not sealed up so tightly, since preventing loss of heat is not an issue - okay.... well that certainly makes sense.
Sorry to expound so much, I appreciate your thoughts!
Barbara Taylor
Hawaii Dreaming
Hawaii Dreaming
