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Koa Smith, a 23 year old surfer from Hawaii times it just right, and catches a mile long wave while visiting Africa.
Both drone video, and GoPro from inside the barrel:
https://www.oregonlive.com/today/index.s...early.html
“Generalized intelligence and mental alertness are the most powerful enemies of dictatorship and at the same time the basic conditions of effective democracy.” - Aldous Huxley
"I'm at that stage in life where I stay out of discussions. Even if you say 1+1=5, you're right - have fun." - Keanu Reeves
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Yup, this might be the lot of life for many surfers in East Hawaii (and retired surfers, one here): Watching great waves elsewhere in video, since our eruption, and the Kalapana eruption, have taken so many waves from us.
We can still hope Pohoiki will be spared.
If not, Honolii surf break in Hilo will be the primary surfing area in the 100-plus miles of coast from South Point to Waipio Valley. And very crowded.
Here's the rare-breaking and exceedingly dangerous "3rd bay" just south of main Pohoiki Bay breaking in 2015. About as good as it gets. The rocky shore here poses serious danger to surfers. Experts only.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cc1NnZ1z1sM
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exceedingly dangerous "3rd bay" just south of main Pohoiki Bay
Talk about challenging!
I enjoyed descriptions of the surf in the comments below the video. Puna style.
“Generalized intelligence and mental alertness are the most powerful enemies of dictatorship and at the same time the basic conditions of effective democracy.” - Aldous Huxley
"I'm at that stage in life where I stay out of discussions. Even if you say 1+1=5, you're right - have fun." - Keanu Reeves
