08-02-2014, 09:43 AM
A week ago a young surfer was stabilized by the lifeguards and taken away in an ambulance. We were told it was a face-plant onto the shallow lava reef. My wife and I surf Pohoiki 4 or 5 times a week for at least a couple years. Recently we've noticed an increase in the number of youngsters and beginners of all ages. I am 6'2" 200 pounds and 3 times in 3 days I've had near misses with youngsters doing something very unexpected, something I strive to avoid. Here are some observations for surfers, body boarders AND THEIR PARENTS
In no particular order:
1. There is no lifeguard. There's a station makai of the kiddie playground area about 100 yards away who can be summoned. Do not rely on some one else to care for you or your child.
2. As everyone knows, legally there is no swimming at the boat ramp. Despite the fact that is by far the most popular place to swim, jump, jump and play for every kid in Puna, it is, foremost, a harbor facility. Boats have the right of way and there's very little room to maneuver. I've seen snorkelers, kids and various paddlers sitting right in the way as the boats come around the breakwater. Usually some one will yell "Boat, boat" to advise everyone to clear out of the way but is not the boat's responsibility. I am surprised there has not, to my knowledge, been a serious collision or death.
3. The Puna coast is sharp, rugged and unforgiving. No sand. The bottom has many black urchins (wana) that have left their spines in every surfer at Pohoiki. Do not stand when you are in the water. Coming in other than at the boat ramp is a bad idea.
4. There is a strong current taking surfers down the coast, flowing left to right as you look to sea. It can pull the unaware onto the jagged reef at First Bay (the popular spot right in front of you if you walk out the breakwater). I know. I have been unaware more than once. My wife and I have both advised happy body-boarders that they should immediately paddle back towards the boat ramp before the next wave sent them into the shredder. And yes, Ulu Napeahi was bitten by a shark, though old-timers say it is the first shark bite incident that anyone can remember. Ulu Boy not only survived but is doing great, climbing the ranks of a pro surfing career. Point being, this is the ocean not the community pool.
5. A couple weeks ago I saw a surfer riding waves with an infant, under 2 years old, on the front of the board. Have seen other very young children on the front of body-boards. This is flat-out stupid and indefensible. Youngsters want to please and are not able to know of any dangers will willingly put themselves in danger, trusting the older surfer.
6. Statistically most surfing injuries are caused by the board's fin. Surfboard fins have a sharp edge and a point and most boards have three of them.
More than fins, however, Pohoiki injuries, from my observation, are from hitting the bottom. Again, there's no sand down there. Even the gentler surf at First Bay has a rock patch just beneath the surface right in the middle of the waves. Expect the unexpected.
The next surf break further down the coast is Second Bay,a much more powerful wave with an experienced crew of regulars. Probably a good idea to stay at, stay at First Bay or go talk to the lifeguard about Shack's another gentler spot in front of the lifeguard tower..
7. Basic surf etiquette is the wave rider up first has the right of way. if you want to catch a wave, always look to see if another rider already has it. First Bay is exclusively right slides. Taking off in front of another rider is very poor form and can be dangerous. If another rider has the wave, pull back, watch and learn something.
8. When (not if) you fall, fall flat to avoid bottom contact. If you are going to be tumbled, fall clear of your board (assuming you are not going to clobber some else...your leash will keep the board close)), wrap one arm over your face and grab the back of your head. Protect your eyes, nose and mouth. Reach up with the other hand to let other surfers know you are there so they won't run into you.
9. Finally, check out and evaluate your fellow surfers in the water. Who is surfing well, who is a helpless kook who might get in the way, is there a stand-up paddle boarder? How about the 4 6-year olds bobbing right in the impact zone? Avoid these guys.
Most everyone, in and out of the water at Pohoiki is friendly. It always cool to ask another surfer or the lifeguard where you should sit, paddle in, about the current, how big the big sets are, etc. AND NEVER BE EMBARRASSED TO ASK FOR HELP IF YOU ARE IN TROUBLE IN THE WATER.
In no particular order:
1. There is no lifeguard. There's a station makai of the kiddie playground area about 100 yards away who can be summoned. Do not rely on some one else to care for you or your child.
2. As everyone knows, legally there is no swimming at the boat ramp. Despite the fact that is by far the most popular place to swim, jump, jump and play for every kid in Puna, it is, foremost, a harbor facility. Boats have the right of way and there's very little room to maneuver. I've seen snorkelers, kids and various paddlers sitting right in the way as the boats come around the breakwater. Usually some one will yell "Boat, boat" to advise everyone to clear out of the way but is not the boat's responsibility. I am surprised there has not, to my knowledge, been a serious collision or death.
3. The Puna coast is sharp, rugged and unforgiving. No sand. The bottom has many black urchins (wana) that have left their spines in every surfer at Pohoiki. Do not stand when you are in the water. Coming in other than at the boat ramp is a bad idea.
4. There is a strong current taking surfers down the coast, flowing left to right as you look to sea. It can pull the unaware onto the jagged reef at First Bay (the popular spot right in front of you if you walk out the breakwater). I know. I have been unaware more than once. My wife and I have both advised happy body-boarders that they should immediately paddle back towards the boat ramp before the next wave sent them into the shredder. And yes, Ulu Napeahi was bitten by a shark, though old-timers say it is the first shark bite incident that anyone can remember. Ulu Boy not only survived but is doing great, climbing the ranks of a pro surfing career. Point being, this is the ocean not the community pool.
5. A couple weeks ago I saw a surfer riding waves with an infant, under 2 years old, on the front of the board. Have seen other very young children on the front of body-boards. This is flat-out stupid and indefensible. Youngsters want to please and are not able to know of any dangers will willingly put themselves in danger, trusting the older surfer.
6. Statistically most surfing injuries are caused by the board's fin. Surfboard fins have a sharp edge and a point and most boards have three of them.
More than fins, however, Pohoiki injuries, from my observation, are from hitting the bottom. Again, there's no sand down there. Even the gentler surf at First Bay has a rock patch just beneath the surface right in the middle of the waves. Expect the unexpected.
The next surf break further down the coast is Second Bay,a much more powerful wave with an experienced crew of regulars. Probably a good idea to stay at, stay at First Bay or go talk to the lifeguard about Shack's another gentler spot in front of the lifeguard tower..
7. Basic surf etiquette is the wave rider up first has the right of way. if you want to catch a wave, always look to see if another rider already has it. First Bay is exclusively right slides. Taking off in front of another rider is very poor form and can be dangerous. If another rider has the wave, pull back, watch and learn something.
8. When (not if) you fall, fall flat to avoid bottom contact. If you are going to be tumbled, fall clear of your board (assuming you are not going to clobber some else...your leash will keep the board close)), wrap one arm over your face and grab the back of your head. Protect your eyes, nose and mouth. Reach up with the other hand to let other surfers know you are there so they won't run into you.
9. Finally, check out and evaluate your fellow surfers in the water. Who is surfing well, who is a helpless kook who might get in the way, is there a stand-up paddle boarder? How about the 4 6-year olds bobbing right in the impact zone? Avoid these guys.
Most everyone, in and out of the water at Pohoiki is friendly. It always cool to ask another surfer or the lifeguard where you should sit, paddle in, about the current, how big the big sets are, etc. AND NEVER BE EMBARRASSED TO ASK FOR HELP IF YOU ARE IN TROUBLE IN THE WATER.
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