Posts: 1,522
Threads: 13
Joined: Apr 2014
If you own a Federal Pacific or Zinsco breaker box don't bother with stocking up parts, just have it replaced. It has been proven that these panels win the "value engineering" award with their grossly undersized buss bars (what carries the "brunt" or line current in your panel), to undersized lugs on the overcurrent protector(breaker) that stab onto the buss bar.
Many breakers have "welded" themselves to the buss bar from moisture to overloading, and many insurance carriers are balking at insuring if you have one in your home.
Replace it with "Homeline", Square D, or similar panels that have the nice, bright, wide buss bar in the panel, and always use the dialectic grease on aluminum conductors (wires) where they attach to the breaker. The difference in heat ratings of copper and aluminum are very different, and applying the grease somehow keeps them from loosening over time.
Edit to correct first word, and add Zinsco.
Community begins with Aloha
Posts: 2,899
Threads: 489
Joined: Mar 2006
Just wanted to make an addendum to my previous post. After the lose wires were corrected...a day later..the power fluctuations returned and half the house was having power and the other half wasn't. Called HELCO..turns out the Meter box is partially shorting out. The main breaker switch was arcing on the top side...on both sides of the box (which is why only half my house works) and needs to be replaced along with a new meter box. So $80.00 is now up to about $1000.00
Posts: 7,754
Threads: 687
Joined: Jun 2011
Does homeowner's insurance cover?
Posts: 1,123
Threads: 68
Joined: Mar 2015
The new alluminum wires znd the crappy breakers, cause 1/2 our house to fail. The
Moisture, causes a coating of white oxcidation
HPP
HPP
Posts: 2,899
Threads: 489
Joined: Mar 2006
I did check...The homeowner policy covers for "sudden and accidental" damage to the home. It seems the electrical box was an on-going (age related) problem which homeowners doesn't cover.
Posts: 1,522
Threads: 13
Joined: Apr 2014
As I stated above, aluminum conductors, or wires need to have the dialectic grease applied on the bare aluminum before you secure it to the over current (breaker). This not only stops the corrosion, but also shields the connection from coming loose due to the heat differential of the aluminum conductor and copper fastening lug.
Somehow some licensed "electricians" miss this, as well as the inspector, and I have seen many more Code violations on "licensed" jobs here for some reason that pertain to Life/Safety. Perhaps the Building Department puts too much faith on items that they deem to be done by "professionals"?
Community begins with Aloha
Posts: 4,935
Threads: 83
Joined: Feb 2009
This is very common in Hawaii and 30 years is a good life for one in Hawaii.
Down in Kapoho I saw some that failed after 10 years.
Last years eruption did a lot of damage to electrical equipment that will be showing up in the next few years, if it it hasn't already.
Posts: 14,124
Threads: 424
Joined: Aug 2012
aluminum conductors, or wires need to have the dialectic grease applied
Antioxidant grease on all connections -- even copper/copper -- not just in the breaker panel, but also wire nuts and fixture terminals, because keeping out air/moisture just avoids all kinds of problems later. Especially with low-voltage DC.
Posts: 1,522
Threads: 13
Joined: Apr 2014
Thanks Kalakoa! I only know it by a trade name of NaaLox in the electrical department of your favorite supply house (well, maybe not favorite, but all ya got)!
Community begins with Aloha
