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Joists rotting
#11
Hey Rob, I am sooo much in favor of that...but the existing house had some (most is not wood framed) & the engineering costs to CHANGE vs replace....well we went for the much less costly route...even though it was not by any means cheap!

But our diamond plate aluminum boxed kitchen cabinets are receiving a lot of compliments (our contractor is wowed over by them...)but we did have a punawebber & exquisite cabinetmaker do sapele wood facefronts & door frames (figure very little there for termites & they will not mess up the insides of the cabinets if they do get to the wood....again, gotta pick & chose the battles & the costs...)

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#12
quote:
Originally posted by Rob Tucker

.....or don't use wood.


spec to replace 2x6? where to purchase?
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#13
You can use metal "I" or "C" beams to replace dimensional lumber, and is available (some dimensions at Hilo Steel Works others would need to be ordered)... most of our house is framed with aluminum framing (not steel) but the carport beam was wood (although all of the main house & carport trusses are aluminum...) so we decided to avoid re-engineering & replace with what was there....

It was just easier...not better by any means...
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#14
I did my decks out of concrete. They don't give me any problems.

I talked to a guy from Waipio Valley who said he had replaced a wood deck there three times in five years and was looking for something more durable. I showed him something more durable and and he said "but that costs more!!!". I said yep, it does. The higher quality stuff usually does.
Assume the best and ask questions.

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#15
So, Rob, no spec to replace 2x6?
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#16
Are you asking about a joist or a flat deck board?
Assume the best and ask questions.

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#17
Joists
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#18
For joists I recommend light gage galvanized steel. You need to know your span, centers and intended load to size a joist. Steel joists can be ordered from Oahu. The main difference is you use screws instead of nails.
Assume the best and ask questions.

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#19
When the screws penetrate the galvanizing, won't rust set in?

6' span plus 2' cantilever. 40# live + 10# dead loads. Supplier? 5 1/2 " available?
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#20
There is nothing made by man that cannot be defeated by nature... but galvanized steel will out last and out perform wood.

Using light gauge steel correctly you should acquire a can of spray on cold zinc (from Gas Pro) to coat any cut ends or penetrations. This is the moral equivalent of brushing or dipping cut wood ends with Hi-bor.

A plated steel screw penetrating a galvanized steel joist will provide a potential point of rust. The dryer that point of penetration is over time the better. One can lay a wide bead of caulk on the joist to help seal the penetrations. Using wood deck material is a bit like putting a sponge on the joist. Wood holds water. A composite deck material will serve you better over time. It will not act like a wet sponge.

For your span a 5-1/2" joist should be fine. In light gauge steel it will be available in various gauges. I recommend 18 ga. minimum.
Can be order from G.W. Killebrew in Honolulu. Have them quote delivered to the Port of Hilo. Track will come in 10' lengths. Joists can be ordered very precisely by gauge, height, width and length.
Assume the best and ask questions.

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