Min stairs width

[Hunt Stoddard]

Does anyone know what the local code says about minimum stair width for egress (getting in and out of house, I assume) stairs. I think it's usually something like 36 inches.

What are opinions on preserving wood stairs on under eaves exterior stairways? I'm thinking using ACQ lumber and wood preserver on stringers. You see a lot of exterior stairways that are rotted after only a few years.

Thanks.

[Tink]

I believe you are correct on main door stairs being 36 inches in width. Something to do with ambulance gurney width, as primary door is 36 inches as well. No door swing out without a landing 36 wide, 36 deep before stairs.

Community begins with Aloha

[terracore]

Ambulance gurney, appliances, furniture... The best staircase I ever had was a nice extra-wide one.

[VancouverIslander]

http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/i...sec009.htm

Tink is correct on the 36 inches. 11 inch minimum tread depth, 4-7" riser (no more than 3/8" difference between any treads either height or depth). I remember a study done recently on riser heights and stairway accidents that could eventually lead to a move toward the lower end of riser heights becoming standard.

Just call me Mike

[Obie]

Use peel and seal aluminum roofing tape on top of the stringers before you screw the treads down.

Paint all of the wood before you start construction and keep it dry before it is painted.

[hotinhawaii]

Pressure treated stringers with wood preservative on the cuts, prime and paint stringers before install, flashing tape on top of stringers to seal around holes made by attaching treads. Treads made from composite decking. Same treatment goes for exposed decks. I've been doing it like this for years and can't imagine what else I could've done to preserve the stairs. Time will tell. Green or brown wood preserver, not Boracare.

[Hunt Stoddard]

Thanks for width info. I agree with using pressure treated (ACQ) lumber for stringers and preserver on all cuts. My experience has been that treads rot much slower than stringers and post/stringer junctions, but I'll probably go ACQ on those as well. I have to say, I hate composite decking. It's hard to work with, unforgiving, weathers ugly and if you scratch it, you're screwed. Oh, and expensive. I've also had better luck with opaque stains than paint. Paint dries, cracks chips and bubbles, stain doesn't. With all that, I think you get an exposed stairway that will last 15-20 years. With borate wood, you get stairs that are rotting at 5 years.

[Hunt Stoddard]

Another technique people might try is using a strong polyurethane caulk on top and side junctions (never on bottom junctions, which traps water), though this may impede drying and cause more problems than it solves.

[jm3]

Regardless of the minimum the County willapprove, normal-sized persons have a better time navigating stairs 42- 44". Something that seems luxurious is just enough if you are dealing with moving bulky objects or assisting someone on the stairs.

[jm3]

Construction method makes a difference, too. Notching wood and that is weather exposed does not end up well. Better stairs have angle clip supported treads (and yes without a central stringer you may need heavier lumber such as 3x for the treads) attached to more substantial, not-notched stringers (my own preference for those is steel).