My "Cedar Faced" Metal Gate Project W/Pics

[toucano]

Cathy - Thank you for the compliment. It really was fun to do and not all that difficult a project. I could have made it quite ornate, but decided simple fit the plan better.

Why is steel so expensive here? Because they can sell it for just about whatever they want. If you need it, you need it. Like so many things here, the retail price charged does not always seem to be tied to the wholesale cost paid. I know, I know... I've heard it a million times: "it costs a lot here in Hawaii because it is imported from the mainland." Last time I checked, Kona coffee sells for less at the Safeway stores in Washington state than it does here and macadamia nuts were a bit cheaper at the Wal-Marts there too. Go figure.

I sure agree about trying to keep money on the island and I try to shop 'local' as much as possible. I do buy from HPM once in a while. I also like Argus for lumber. But if I need specific hardware and/or tools, I usually don't have the time to drive all over to hear the inevitable "Sorry. Out-of-stock. The next shipment is in 4 to 6 weeks." And even at Home Depot I hear that all to frequently.

[Royall]

This may not be the place to post this but my help someone out if you need a custom gate. My neighbor is setting up to fabricate truck racks, trailers, gates, and what ever. He built a great rack for his truck last week. I think I'll have him build one for me as I can't find one to fit it. Contact me though the forum email and I'll get you his phone number. He has a lot in HPP and will be building this summer if all goes well.

Royall

What goes around comes around!

[Robin C]

As toucano points out:
By far the hardest part of the whole project was getting the holes for the fence posts. Nothing like building on lava...

How DO you get the holes for the fence posts in to the lava?

I am trying to build a simple fence with metal posts and hog wire. In some places the fence posts can be hammered in. In others, no amount of my manual hammering seems to work.

What have others done?

My dog and I would be very grateful for some pointers. He's on a long leash until I get his fence built.

Thanks in advance.

Robin

[Noel M2]

I've had a fence contractor use a jackhammer to bust through solid rock.

Another alterative that I will be trying out at another project is a 'core drill'. Consult with the folks a Puna Rentals for the best tool for your actual situation.

Oh, avoid dynamite. :-)

Noel

[Robin C]

Thanks, Noel.

I called Puna Rentals.
They recommended a "rock drill". From my google searches, they look similar/same as "core drills".

Does anyone know if you have to put anything in the hole, or just bang in the fence post?

I am using the standard cheap metal posts which are only about two inches wide and have the arrow-shaped flare piece at the bottom.
I'm imagining that if I drill a hole slightly smaller than the post, that the metal will bend a bit for a snug fit.
Any ideas?

Robin

[HADave]

If your lot is level enough sink a post into a 5 gallon bucket filled with cement, unless it is a really big dog it is doubtful you would any problems with moving.

If you ever had to move it you could, easier than relocating holes. weight of 5 gallon plastic pails filled with concrete mix approx 150lbs +

Aloha HADave

[Robin C]

Thanks, HADave.

The cement buckets might be a last resort.
I have about 600 feet to fence.
I think the buckets and cement might cost a fair bit more than renting the rock drill ($110 /day).
Also, securing the fence at the bottom might be more difficult.

I'll definitely keep it in mind though. Could be just the ticket in some extra difficult spots.

Robin

[leilaniguy]

I fenced my entire acre with hogwire, about 1000'. I cemented the corner posts but not much else. After trying to keep it straight and having no luck getting the posts in line, I gave up and just drove them in soft spots or cracks as close to straight as possible. most of it is within a foot of the line, and since it's all in the woods, it's not noticeable.

[Noel M2]

Robin,

I've had to fence in a couple of acres around our home and found that the fence guys packed base coarse around the posts. This allows moisture to drain through and prevent rot (in cases of wood posts). That's obviously not an issue with metal posts but it's an interesting consideration, i.e., using base course to secure the posts vs more expensive concrete.

Tips:
Material:
It looks like you're utilizing 't-posts'. I strongly recommend using the galvanized variety. They will last much longer.

Invest in good fabric too.

Aesthetics:
If you want them to 'disappear' paint them with black paint before installing the fence fabric.

Construction:
In order to stretch the fabric tight, you'll need strong corners. H-braces are ideal for this. Wood posts are generally used in these parts although some use galvanized pipes. The latter requires some welding.

Sourcing:
We purchase our fence material at Miranda's (Hilo). They've got it all for farm fencing projects.

We will be fencing a 1.5 acre project in HPP in a few weeks. I'll let you know if I learn anything new.


Noel

[toucano]

I used metel fence posts and used a drill from a rental that had about a 2 1/4" bit. I think it was about $75 a day. I used a stringline to and then plumb-bobbed from that for the holes. Holes were about 1 to 1 1/2 feet deep. Got it very straight. Then I hand filled around the posts with concrete and tamped the heck out of it. I used 'barbless barbed wire" for the fence. I brought that from the states. Don't see it here. I followed the natural contour of the property and that worked out well.

For the front fence portion, I put the same cedar I used for the gate on the barbed wire. It mates up with the cedar faced farm gate. Attaching the cedar was interesting. But it worked out well and it looks pretty decent.

A lot of work. And NOT a weekend project without helpers.

I'll post pics later.