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Wood Refinisher
#1
Got me some fancy wood doors with beveled glass. The glass is holding up against the onslaught of the ocean but the wood is not. In just the one year that I have owned the home the doors have faded. As I am one again exiled to the mainland until I return at last never again to say goodbye, I need a wood refinisher. I have approached the wonderful Kawika but have not heard from him yet. If you have other suggestions, they would be appreciated. One guy I talked to suggested a marine varnish. Another suggest plain old polyurethane. Not sure which way to go here.

My thoughts are blurred by the burning embers of your eyes.
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#2
Having been involved in the boat industry as far as I'm concerned the best substance you can possibly use for that sort of application would be one of the 2 part l-polyurethane finishes. My favorite is "Bristol." You will get 10 times, no exaggeration, the UV resistance with one of these type finishes, and you'll be able to put on multiple coats in a day. They stink like toxic waste, but that's the price you pay.

It MUST be a 2 part. 1 part polyurethanes are usually just alkyd enamels.

The only trouble with the two part finishes like this is that you must be very wary of punctures in the skin coat, as water under the impermeable finish will cause it to lift in time.

You most likely will have to order this stuff, but if the sun is beating on your project it's the best you can come up with by far.
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#3
Wow, thanks JW. I take it that "Bristol" is a coating that goes on after the refinishing and staining of the doors?
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#4
Just paint it spar buff and pretend it is stained wood underneath? Wink That's what my neighbor did on his boat. Saved tons of labor on keeping the varnish bright.

For exterior sides of doors and such, paint will usually weather a lot better than clear finishes. But marine two part finishes are a good choice if you are going to go with some sort of clear coat.

"I like yard sales," he said. "All true survivalists like yard sales." 
Kurt Wilson
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#5
Bristol comes in a honey colored formulation that looks a lot like varnish, except for the higher sheen, and a clear formulation too. They're compatible with a lot of stuff. The topmast on my last boat I had treated with that stuff and it was great, very abrasion resistant too as it needed to be shipped 40 feet up the main mast through the spectacle irons to step. You love it. The only drawback I can really put to it is that you really need a real respirator to apply it.

You can sand and buff runs too, which can be a big help as well.
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#6
What about cetol?

Catherine Dumond
Blue Water Project Management
808 965-9261
"We help make building your dream home a reality"
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#7
This doesn't hold up, but does help the wood for the time, until it can get refinished, if it is unfinished or oil stained, wipe down with linseed or tung oil...this will help about a year (less in salt air)

Also, if your glass has caning, watch it for any corrosion, it can crop up fast!
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#8
I don't like cetol in many cases because it isn't very transparent and can get pretty muddy looking. As well, it's not nearly as hard a surface, and I suspect it will scuff. You can have adhesion problems with cetol if it's too warm out too. On nice material like doors are typically built of, it's nice to keep the grain accentuated. The LP paints and finishes are much superior in every way, I think the only thing that keeps people from using them is simple fear of trying something new, and mixing products seems to bug people as well. Any two part chemically hardening product is going to have better adhesion than a single part drying product.


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#9
quote:
Originally posted by JWFITZ

Bristol comes in a honey colored formulation that looks a lot like varnish, except for the higher sheen, and a clear formulation too. They're compatible with a lot of stuff. The topmast on my last boat I had treated with that stuff and it was great, very abrasion resistant too as it needed to be shipped 40 feet up the main mast through the spectacle irons to step. You love it. The only drawback I can really put to it is that you really need a real respirator to apply it.

You can sand and buff runs too, which can be a big help as well.


What was your last boat? A brigantine? Tops'l schooner? Sounds like a lovely boat although it also sounds like it probably was a maintenance nightmare. Hey, they are looking for someone to take over the Falls of Clyde! Need another project? It is an iron hulled ship, but instead of keeping it floating, maybe someone could dig a hole to set her in and make her into a house? You could put her in your yard and we could do some paint versus Bristol experiments?

Hey, Glen, if you had the Falls of Clyde in your front yard, then fixing your front door would then become a very minor project. That's one way to make a project easier, don'tcha think?

"I like yard sales," he said. "All true survivalists like yard sales." 
Kurt Wilson
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#10
Last boat was a gaff cutter, MACHA.

http://lyonsimaging.smugmug.com/gallery/...4Dm#P-1-20

I hope the link works. The new owners sail her in San Fransisco Bay. I built and launched the boat 5 years ago now. Sold that a little over a year ago and bought the property here, built my house, and now plan to start building a new boat for the pacific. A well designed and built boat isn't a maintenance nightmare at all, really.

I'd love to build about a 80 foot outrigger.
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