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Termite proofing your home, best practices..
#11
Pam mentioned painting the inside of the outer walls. If this is done while in the framing stages of construction just before the rock goes on the walls, how long would it last? Can something be sprayed on? If so what would or should be used?

One last question, will you get infestation from termites that swarm and get into the house above ground?


Royall

What goes around comes around!


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#12
[quote]
An article I wanted to bring forward that I found regarding safe products used for the control of termites and other critters that lurk about the home.

http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/boric_acid.html

I think many will benefit from this earlier posted article it answer several questions and provides different approaches with inexspensive products, but you have to read the whole thing.

HADave

Another thing for insects and crawlly things under the house spray a white wash solution of hydrated lime in the floor joist bays before the rough plumbing and subfloor, it makes it all white for easier seeing lightens things up so creatures that like the dark will be detered. There are simple recipes to make whitewash lime /water/ allum

Edited by - HADave on 03/02/2006 09:15:06

Edited by - HADave on 03/02/2006 09:18:27
Aloha HADave & Mz P

Hawaiian Acres

The best things in life are free.... or have no interest or payments for one full year.



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#13
Bringing this forward for those seeking info on termites..

Hope it helps some...

Aloha HADave

Aloha HADave & Mz P

Hawaiian Acres

The best things in life are free.... or have no interest or payments for one full year.



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#14
I can attest to the awesome effect of using propylene glycol & boric acid. Dissolve 4 tbls boric acid in 1 cup boiling water, add to 1 gal. propylene glycol, put in a garden sprayer and saturate wood, let dry. It will penetrate the wood and kill/deter the wood boring insects.

I do this once every spring in NH. I have a feeling HI homes will need it more frequently, we'll see.

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#15
Thanks, HADave for bringing this forward. We're discussing termites in two threads.

Great information that I very much appreciate. There's so much information in this forum, I don't know a subject is interesting unless it gets brought forward like this.

Thanks a ton,
Brian (Fishboy)

Aloha pumehana,
Brian and Mary
Lynnwood, WA\Discovery Harbour
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#16
The best way to avoid termite problems is to simply stop building with wood. There are economical alternatives and you end up with other reduced problems like mold, fire, etc.

Of course if you already have a wood home then sign up for regular termite inspections.

This is one of my main subjects. I am biased. I am a former master carpenter who now sells other new building materials.
Assume the best and ask questions.

Punaweb moderator
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#17
Well, Rob, you've provided some good information on steel framing in other threads, but we didn't take that discussion to termites. So, how much of a home's construction can be steel? Certainly, I can answer my own question, but a completely steel structure would be more a fortification than home. Can you get steel floor joists and roof rafters? I've heard of concrete siding, but what other home components are both affordable and attractive?

Mahalo nui,
Brian (Fishboy)

P.S. How did a Master Carpenter get so good at web page design?

Edited by - Fishboy on 09/06/2006 01:54:43

Edited by - Fishboy on 09/06/2006 01:55:15
Aloha pumehana,
Brian and Mary
Lynnwood, WA\Discovery Harbour
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#18
Oh, that stainless steel mesh is called "Termi-mesh" and there are some folks in Hilo who are representatives for the company. The phone and power companies use the stuff on their poles and on Oahu there used to be a company who had some sort of polymer goo they would use to repair termite eaten poles with while the poles were still in place. Don't know if they are still around or not.

If it is a non-structural termite repair, just smush some "Fix-All" into the crack, texture to match the surroundings and paint. Easier than replacing parts.

A hui hou,
Cathy


"I like yard sales," he said. "All true survivalists like yard sales." 
Kurt Wilson
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#19
So, how much of a home's construction can be steel?

It is practical to replace 100% of a homes structural parts with steel except for sheathing and there are cementicious substitutes for ply.

I am not a true steel frame devotee. Conventional framing in wood or steel is complex and labor intensive / steel has negative thermal properties and wood has just a lot of negatives. I do like to use steel for interior framing where thermal issues don't matter but prefer SIP (structural insulated panels) for exterior walls.
Assume the best and ask questions.

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#20
Interesting structures and designs.

The thermal issue with steel is this:

Metal gets very hot in the sun. Conventional sidings and roofing get quite hot too. This heat will transfer into the building and make it quite warm. Not a good energy or lifestyle issue. To try to move the heat out people invest in fans and air conditioning - that is a costly approach to badly thought out design. Month by month by month it costs money.

Thermal decoupling needs to be designed into a steel structure.
Assume the best and ask questions.

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