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Green Building
#11
Hi Michael, nice to meet you, thanks for the nice comments.

To answer your questions:

The catchment tanks is built on site, of hardwire cloth and a 4 to 1 mortar mix, so it can be plastered into or around most any structure. I can't figure out why more people don't do this sort of thing. It's labor intensive, but you can build a tank for about .50 cents a gallon, which is pretty dang cheap.

The windows are all custom built by me, lexan glazing, for security and potential hurricane or earthquake problems.

The key to building inexpensively is to design the floor plan, walls, roof pitch, etc, so you use standard sized lumber and plywood with no waste whatsoever. It's not hard to do if you think about it. If you don't want to bulldoze the lot, the laminate timber frame truss style is smart, as all the beams are small pieces of lumber that fit in a normal sized truck and can be carried by hand. If you need a boom truck, you're faced with destroying your lot.

Simple stuff like that goes a very long way to saving money. I think it looks nice too.

Natural light is key as well, but rarely is the spec-building contractor going to think much about how to orient the house, or consider ideal exposure. In many area the simple layout of the road front can prohibit sensible building.

I've done a fair bit of off-grid sorts of stuff, as well as boatbuilding, which certainly makes you picky about use of space and conservative in use of materials. Of course you can spend as little or as much as you want on details, but a very clean livable structure can be built for 50 to 80 dollars a square foot, even at today's prices.

Core to my philosophy of "green building" is economy. It's hardly sensible to suggest you're doing something to "save the environment" or whatever if your "green structure" costs more and uses more materials than a conventional one. Sadly, that's often the case, and there's a big industry in selling "feel good environmentalism," which is tragic and exploitive.

The ponds are easy, but details can be difficult to make look natural and not get full of bugs, while supporting healthy fish. I've done it with the ferrocement as well as with a simple tarp. Both work, but the ferro is decidely nicer once you get it cured and acid washed.

Of course you'd be more than welcome to take a look.

Jay
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#12
JW, am interested in getting into a set up for woodgas! I have 3500$ to start by just not paying hook up in Royal Hawaiian! Will be building a small house, and want real functional power Large batteries the works!
While I'm on Oahu, is there anything you can think of I could get here before coming over!
I see oodles of generators here, would a set up for propane be functional, ideally propane as a backup!
Another major part, being the boiler unit! I would have no idea what would work, but there are any number of places with scrap used, even new but obsolete for whatever metal parts over here!!
I'm trying to get more info especially on the boiler!
Gordon J Tilley
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#13
I wanted to view the pics on your my space, but when hitting the pics button it refers me to videos, not pics. Darn, any suggestions on how to view these photos without a myspace log on?

mella l
mella l
Art and Science
bytheSEA
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#14
Hey Jerome,

Nice work ! Are all of the windows on the cabin plexiglass ? When I get my driveway pushed in, I'm gonna have them dig a couple of nice sized pits to build a shrimp pond and catchment tank, in the same style you used. Did you just hand mix the cement and apply or did you have a pump and sprayer/hopper ?
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#15
Good morning all!

Answers to questions.

The Holtzman gas generator in my case is built of propane tanks as the bodies, and the fire tube is 6 inch steel from Hilo Steel. The device must be calibrated for hp rating of the motor it's going to run, and in any case is going to require some fiddling. It works, but I'd like to see it work better. In my case, slow startup times, excess tars and such. Larger motors are easier to run than smaller, so get a bigger generator rather than a little one. I'd get one small gas powered unit for convinience, and a big bugger that could top the batteries in about an hour and a half or so, so you'd only have to fire the woodgas once a day, more or less, depending.

The windows are Lexan, not plexiglas, as the UV in this climate will burn up plexiglas pretty fast, so avoid that.

The cement is mixed in a wheelbarrow and troweled on. The catchment tank is 8 x 8 x 4 and I believe I used 10 sacks of brick mix with a shovel of p. cement to richen the mix per sack. Not a lot of concrete, it's about a 1/2 inch thick. Having a couple people to help would have been very nice!
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#16
quote:
Originally posted by Kapohocat

Okay guys put your thinking caps on!

We have plenty of sun (most times of the year) down here in Kapoho. I want to do some sort of rustic hot water for our beach shower. We already have live hot water from the water heater which my goal is to eliminate (or just as a standby). SB says just go to gas but you still have to purchase gas. It still runs through all the refinement, etc etc....

I do not want to do the mega solar hot water panels etc. I was thinking a barrel that had water heated by the sun that could run in as a third line. Any ideas? It was suggested to get black propoline (SP?) line and put it on the roof (same idea as warm water in the hose laying across the yard when no one coils it up). You know SB is shaking his head at the ideas I am concocting so any thoughts on a simple effective system?

My thoughts were that in purchasing the tank, the panels, etc,and using gas I have just enlarged our carbon footprint instead of reducing it.

Catherine Dumond
Blue Water Project Management
808 965-9261
"We help make building your dream home a reality"



Hey Cat here is a tried and true method we used to used at hunting camps, 55 gallon plastic barrel, soap came in, mounted on an 7-8 ft tower. Pickup tube inserted into the smaller hole on top connected to black rubber garden hose wrapped neatly round and round the barrel from top to bottom and secured wwith shrink wrap or better lots and lots of black electrical tape, use good rigid rubber hose so not to colapse. Exit the hose under the center of the barrel with a control valve and shower head. refill from the large threaded hole atop the barrel opposite the pickup via funnel or catchment branch supply line. start a syphon pray for sun to warm and rain to fill you'll be good to go. Tell SB if he has doubts his Neck ain't quite Red Enough ; ) hehe!!

Aloha HADave & Mz P

Kurtistown / Hawaiian Acres

The best things in life are free.... or have no interest or payments for one full year.



Aloha HADave & Mz P

Hawaiian Acres

The best things in life are free.... or have no interest or payments for one full year.



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#17
Hi Cat,

Check these out. http://www.parpools.com/Page/Pool/PoolAc...hower.html

http://www.shop.com/+-a-solar+outdoor+sh...r-st.shtml

The following is what we used for awhile, but not really enough sun in HA to rely on it alone. I have one of these I am not using anymore if you want it. It's just the tube, holds about 6 gallons of water.

http://shop.solardirect.com/product_info...cturers_id=&products_id=114

Scott
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#18
Now thats what I am looking for Scott! Very cool (or hot as the case may be!)
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#19
Cat, did you want the solar tube? Julie and I will most likely be in your area snorkeling we could drop it off. How's that for service. Let me know.

Scott
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#20
I havent got it yet! Talked it over with SB and he said great! I will email you separetly....

Now that we have derailed green building - I will bring it back... I found a green building forum on the HGTV forum website

Catherine Dumond
Blue Water Project Management
808 965-9261
"We help make building your dream home a reality"
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