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Help for Rust on tools
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11-12-2011, 05:28 AM
You are great punawebbers. Thanks so much for all the suggestions.
I will give some a try and report back on my findings. Thanks again.
hawaiideborah
11-12-2011, 06:18 AM
Tannic acid has long been used as a rust cleaner & potato does have some tannins...so most likely the potato method is utilizing tannic acids
Zinc bars have been used for years as a sacrificial anode in the marine trade, and zinc phosphate (along with other phosphates like Phospho) are used as rust removers. I have a sneaking suspicion that the Zerust may be utilizing a zinc compound....just based on the name... if you do use any acid OR base (inc. vinegar OR baking soda - both make a volcano...) make sure to rinse completely & then PROTECT the surface (paint, wax, oil, triflow, resin, etc.....) as most rust removers leave the metal surface with micro pitting that is much easier to re-rust (oxidize). We have oil & a slab of wax right on our tool box to hit any light corrosion immediately (Ace has little blobs of beeswax, but we have also used surf wax)
11-12-2011, 06:27 AM
my home (and boat) remedy
http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/oxalic_acid.html great for removing the oxidation on wood too word to the wise - keep it out of cuts - delays healing big time - use latex gloves in common dilute form http://www.barkeepersfriend.com/ good luck
11-12-2011, 03:46 PM
When rust has been removed from tools etc... try moth balls. When placed in a closed container they seem to last forever and as they evaporate leave a coating which prevents rust. A tip from a New Jersey Punawanabe.
11-13-2011, 03:04 PM
Might be a good idea but I don't like handling chemicals with my fingers..... still prefer a wire wheel on a motor. Invaluable with tool in the Puna climate.
Assume the best and ask questions.
Punaweb moderator
11-14-2011, 08:52 AM
again - stainless tools - have kept a set in my "small repair bag" for years
11-14-2011, 02:08 PM
quote:Carey, You use beeswax right on the tools? I have beeswax on my jewelers table for my swa blades, but never thought to put it on the pliers... might make them too slippery, but I have to try it out. Thanks.
hawaiideborah
11-14-2011, 02:10 PM
quote:That makes sense. never thought of moth balls, but that would be cheap to throw in the drawer that the files go in. I just don't have the time or inclination to put away the tools every day but throwing them in one of the drawers with mothballs would work. Thanks for the idea.
hawaiideborah
11-14-2011, 02:13 PM
quote:ok, I am going to try barkeepers friend also. these are lots of suggestions and I can't wait to test them all out. thanks.
hawaiideborah
12-05-2011, 10:58 AM
I thought I would give an update on what worked for me.
Boesheild was not sold at Home Depot. They even looked it up on their computer in Customer Service and they said they never sold it. i looked for this product at Walmart and Target, but neither had it. The tri-flow is not carried at Walmart or Home Depot, so I have to stop at an Ace and see if they carry it. Haven't tried that one with the steel whool yet. PB Blaster was at both Home Depot and Waltmart. It did not free up either my Dremmel bit nor a lock I was trying to get a key into. so for me this didn't work so well, but have the can now and will continue to use it as needed. Maybe it will help on other rusted items. Corrosion Block did the deed. I was able to get it at Alumside. they carry 2 sizes of cans there. It freed up my Dremmel and also the lock I couldn't get the key into. It has been great for rust removal from my jewelry tools as well as my garden pruners. This is great stuff. One last question: I have lots of jewelers files. They were very rusty. I have put the corrosion block on them and wrapped them in cloth to store. Is the corossion block oil going to dull the files? Is it advisable to use this on files? If not, how does one keep rust off files? Thanks again for the advice.
hawaiideborah
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