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new puna house design
#51
using bond worked for us when we were not actually using metal flashing on any exposed panel foam.

John Maloney
310.562.0362
johnmaloney3@me.com
Hawaii Architect AR8082

John Maloney
310.562.0362
johnmaloney3@me.com
Hawaii Architect AR8082

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#52
Bondo? Did you carve out any of the foam to create a thicker layer of bondo?
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#53
back to "wood" problem:

what about laminate countertops which are formed onto thick particle board. are they a bad idea also? ie does that underlayment go bad quickly? could you use bondo to seal up the particle board?
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#54
laminate countertops which are formed onto thick particle board

Seal the particle board with some kind of primer (better yet, urethane).
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#55
Avoid laminate tops on particle board unless you like to throw away your money.
Assume the best and ask questions.

Punaweb moderator
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#56
Avoid laminate tops on particle board unless you like to throw away your money.

Right -- I forgot that all wood is always bad, especially particle board.

That said, I primed the underside of my countertops, and they've lasted several years without incident; project was cheap and expedient. The eventual remodel will be less urgent, better funded, and all stainless steel, if the local economic collapse doesn't find me moving back to the mainland for a job.

There is a time and place for all things, even termite food.
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#57
quote:
Originally posted by cinnaminnacat

back to "wood" problem:

what about laminate countertops which are formed onto thick particle board. are they a bad idea also? ie does that underlayment go bad quickly? could you use bondo to seal up the particle board?



I have the misfortune of living in a house that already had laminate/particle board counters. I really wish they didn't, they are disintegrating rapidly and shed particles into all the drawers and cabinets right beneath them.
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#58


I used fiberglass resin to seal the end and (partial) underside of a laminate countertop, so water doesn't get in and make it swell. Hearing this, maybe I'll be inspired to put a coat of paint over the rest soon.
***Still can't figure out how to spell 'car' correctly***
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#59
quote:
Originally posted by lquade

since i had a second chance to build my 'dream home' i built much smarter the second time. still in mt. view but went down 1000 feet in elevation. much bigger overhangs, much shorter stairs, ventilation in the closets, no closet doors. smaller house, much larger lanai. extra bath off the lanai for guests and working in the yard without tracking in cinder and mud. having 30 some years to age between the homes, everything was planned for easier maintenance for my aging self. insulate the ceiling for sound, simplify simplify....oh and plumbing: have outdoor spigots before the filters... saves a lot..


That pretty much covers it!!
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#60
so, then realistically:

bathrooms: pedestal sink, fiberglass shower basin, or standard tub; no standard wood cabinents; towel racks; ??

kitchen: if no wood cabinents, then how do you support the countertops for a "built-in" kitchen? stacked bricks and concrete board?

actually, i have mused on the idea of a "non-standard" kitchen that would be more of a small utility room/food prep area with restaurant style SS prep equipment. the real estate people tell me that without the expected, standard kitchen it will resell, later, as a fixer.

wood anywhere is bad--but so hard to get rid of.
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