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re: Green Builders Hawaii, Inc. , using SABS technique
i have been following up on the various ideas mentioned here.
the green builders company is currently occupied with their own projects and is not taking outside work at the present time (05/2015)
SABS is quite an interesting method, worth a look. structural eps with a spray on reinforced polymer concrete coating. would readily allow for exotic shapes. invented by Nasser Saebi. sort of like a strong foam coated with a strong swimming pool gunnite..no steel reinforcemnts needed.
reminds me, somewhat, of a more "made in place" SIPS (structural insulated panels) approach.
(i have only had experience with wood frame and concrete/steel, so i plead ignorance on all this new stuff).
anyone with experience with any kind of foam in construction, please comment.
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$$ the house may be resold in, say, 10+- years. at 75-80 years old i will need to recoup a decent % of the investment. i will have to use that to fund an assisted living place for both of us!
a fully steel framed house sounds $$$ overpriced for lower puna, but, actually, i dont know how much all steel frame would cost. also sounds like it would be difficult to get it built in lower puna, its a skillset/jobsite problem.
any steel framers wanna comment? any real estate people listening?
thanks to everyone for your thoughtful input. please keep it coming.
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If money was no object we'd all be building pyramids that last tens of thousands of years. It's a proven technology with proven building materials. Myself, I'm stuck with traditional stick-frame housing and praying the termite treated wood holds up. If not, I'll deal with it and I'm pretty sure my house will outlive me, termites or not. Madame Pele... that's a different story.
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You don't need to be a millionaire to build a durable house. You really just have to do it smarter. Wood frame is 19th century... and organic materials don't hold up. I'm surprise everybody isn't driving Yugos the way they talk about costs. Why do people care so little about the largest investment they are likely to make in their lives? If they were buying a car they'd at least ask what kind of mileage it gets.
Assume the best and ask questions.
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back on my intended topic of 2nd floor flooring:
ceramic tile (my usual floor choice) will be very heavy, crack prone, and not as sloppy-moppable on a 2nd floor as i like.
carpet is out.
real wood has all the usual wood problems. doubtful.
vinyl/linoleum: looks cheap, can actually be expensive, has to be waxed!!
laminate: asfaik, all of it has particle wood backing.
vinyl plank: seems to be gone, maybe scratched easily.
what makes a good 2nd story floor covering?
thanks to all for your input, please keep sending it.
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Rob:
Does the ProTec lend itself to 2 story construction? I am assuming that the panels work well secured to a concrete slab. There are various methods to obtain a second story concrete slab so the ProTec could work for both stories, or am I getting carried away?
I drive by what looks like a 2-story concrete house on S. Kopua Rd on my way into Eden Roc. Somebody told me that was built using one of the technologies you sell. Is it? If so, what is it built of?
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quote:
Originally posted by MarkP
Rob:
Does the ProTec lend itself to 2 story construction? I am assuming that the panels work well secured to a concrete slab. There are various methods to obtain a second story concrete slab so the ProTec could work for both stories, or am I getting carried away?
I drive by what looks like a 2-story concrete house on S. Kopua Rd on my way into Eden Roc. Somebody told me that was built using one of the technologies you sell. Is it? If so, what is it built of?
ProTEC is fine for two stories. I also have a substitute for plywood for subfloors. A 3/4" structural cement panel. Fireproof, water proof, termite proof and ready for tile.
The S. Kopua Rd. is a Castleblock home. The walls are ICF and the roof are SIP.
Assume the best and ask questions.
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Thanks Rob.
What takes the place of the 2nd floor joists? Are steel joists used?
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Why do people care so little about the largest investment they are likely to make in their lives?
It's not for lack of caring.
Approximately how much would a simple single-story 20x24 castleblock/concreteboard/sip structure cost? What's the lead time for materials? Further assume that permits are not required (don't handwave the lead time as "less than the permit process").
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quote:
Originally posted by cinnaminnacat
back on my intended topic of 2nd floor flooring:
ceramic tile (my usual floor choice) will be very heavy, crack prone, and not as sloppy-moppable on a 2nd floor as i like.
carpet is out.
real wood has all the usual wood problems. doubtful.
vinyl/linoleum: looks cheap, can actually be expensive, has to be waxed!!
laminate: asfaik, all of it has particle wood backing.
vinyl plank: seems to be gone, maybe scratched easily.
what makes a good 2nd story floor covering?
thanks to all for your input, please keep sending it.
Cork flooring is foot friendly and better for eliminating the echo effect you get with ceramic tile, but not great if you have dogs, real linoleum is also foot friendly, easy to clean, long wearing, attractive, uses fairly sustainable ingredients and is good for people with chemical sensitivities. Both are more expensive than cheap ceramic tile or vinyl flooring but can be less than wood or high end ceramic or stone tiles.
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