Termite proofing your home, best practices..

[adias]

We've touched on this topic on various occasions but it's probably worthwhile getting all the information in one place. Here is a scary article to get started.

http://www.nola.com/speced/homewreckers/...rning.html

Quote from Minoru Tamashiro, a retired University of Hawaii entomologist and Formosan termite expert.
‘‘The standard in Hawaii used to be single-wall, redwood construction, raised on concrete blocks, with a crawlspace underneath,’’ Tamashiro said. ‘‘Nowadays, it’s double-wall construction on a concrete slab. This created better opportunities for the termite.’’

Also the article states “Termites routinely hit utility poles, forcing the power company to install replacements with a special termite-proof barrier wrapped around the bottom.”, Does anyone know what this termite-proof barrier is made of? It seem like this same stuff can be used on the post and pier foundation.

Any thoughts the forum can provide for prevention measure prior to construction is appreciated. There is probably a set of best practices to follow..




Ajit





Edited by - adias on 12/09/2005 15:23:51

Edited by - Rob Tucker on 12/14/2005 18:25:06

[Rob Tucker]

The termite barrior you refer to is, I believe, a fine stainless steel mesh.

This mesh is not cheap in large quantities. Small pieces of SS mesh can be very useful by wrapping it around pipes and other concrete slab penetrations before the concrete is poured. Tightly wrapped on a pipe (with a hose clamp) the mesh will prevent ground termites from entering though a joint in the concrete. They can and will do this.

My own home is built on a site where I had to demolish a redwood home. It was about 60 years old (old growth redwood) and was completely termite ridldled. I couldn't salvage one board. Redwood and cedar have high tannic acid content. This tannic acid resists rot and bugs don't like it. It will leech out over time.

Eventually, nothing made by man cannot be defeated by nature. We all just do the best we can.

The simplist way to build a "termite proof" home is simply do not build with wood. Why feed em?


Edited by - Rob Tucker on 12/14/2005 18:24:19

[HADave]

Amen, always build so it can be taken apart without demolition. Expect repairs that is why I advocate a man building his own house you will know exactly how it was put together and how it will come apart.

[HADave]

An article I wanted to bring forward that I found regarding safe products used for the control of termites and other critters that lurk about the home.

http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/boric_acid.html

There is another product I found called Boracare but seems rather expensive @ 100.00 per/gal but may not be for the coverage it provides, anyway FYI

[JaredI]

Why not use termite proof sand under and around the foundations, termite flashings around the top of the foundations, termicide barrier where the wood meets the foundation and a boric solution on all the wood. Dont use boracare, mix it yourself there are places on the web that give you the recipe.

I wouldnt build on a slab either. UofH sell or has a part in termite sand on the islands, I believe it made out of basalt and only need to be 3" thick.

Jared Ivy

[David M]

Looking to meet the termite treatment requirement mandated before slab inspection. So far, I've had quotes ranging from 37 -54 cents per sf. Anybody with a better price? As I have 6 THOUSAND sf to treat, I am price sensitive.

David

Ninole Resident

[Brad W]

Just FYI. I've done extensive demolition on this 1977 double wall construction, built on slab, wood frame house, which was tented by the previous owner three years ago. I've torn out walls and been into nearly every other wall and all of the attic redoing and relocating electrical and plumbing. The only termite damage I have found has been in the closet shelves and kitchen cabinets, i.e., the untreated wood.

[David M]

Overall, I'd call that encouraging Brad.
David

Ninole Resident

[pam jones]

Hi Jared,
I was just wondering where the recipe for the termite solution is found online? Also other than painting the inside of the outerwall w/ maybe this solution, what might be a safe secondary defense before laying down some insulation (don't laugh I am sitting here in sweats, a jersy and warm fuzzy slippahs and am STILL cold in Hawai'i)so insulation at 2000' is a good thing!pj

[allensylves]

A chemical to look into is bifenthrin. Maybe on one of the other PunaWeb threads it was mentioned that it has been found to last 16 years in the ground in Florida as a termite treatment. A local Baton Rouge termite company just treated around our house with an FMC product with bifenthrin and another test compound. There was a hole in the slab under the bathtub for the plumbing. It had been filled in with asphalt tar, but had cracked and the termites came up through the crack. It was not in a petroleum solvent so there was no smell. It also wiped out a few roaches.
Lowes has several different formulations and concentrations for sale for termites and other "bugs". At the recommended termite concentration, it does not go far, but it should not take too much for post & pier construction.
Many of the other termite chemicals do not last nearly as long.

Allen
Baton Rouge, LA & HPP