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Foundations and Floors
#21
I've been pondering on some things we should bring up especially for us DIY's.

One thing I'm hoping we can find and if not we should make, is a termite shield that would lay over the pier similar to those that lay on a concrete wall before the sill plate is laid.

Another concern and I've mentioned this before, How does the local builders deal with wet wood, it has to be a concern, you can't get adhesion when gluing a subfloor down on wet floor joists and with all the rain, not to mention all the other areas of construction adhesive use, well I'm wondering how to deal with it, Short of building under a canopy or not working in the rain. Here is a site on wetted homes and controlling mold.

http://msucares.com/forestry/disaster/14e-mold.pdf

Floor framing, I presume that I-joists are available on the island, but I'm guessing they are really expensive compared to dimensional lumber. If anyone has used them and can comment on there cost difference I'd sure like to hear about it.

Contacting subs for rough in plumbing/electrical/havc another note for us diy's I would guess that each subcontractor has their own protocol for roughing in. Local builders that use their own reg subs know their prerequisites. So perhaps we should be sure to bring these issues up, if we are using subs, before we get setup for delays from rework situations. Just the thought of all of this lends me to think that good subs prefer not to work for diy's especially those that lack local experience. So anyone that can pass along local building protocol would be very helpful to us mainland diy's.))))

Dave

Aloha HADave & Mz P

Hawaiian Acres

The best things in life are free.... or have no interest or payments for one full year.



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#22
Aloha HADave, the county code requires a galvanized plate between the posts and concrete, they are made to fit over the 8x8" tofu block that sit on the piers and are crimped downward at the edges to shed any water. They cost about $1. Prepunched ones are used with the 1 piece peir/tofu with imbedded anchor straps. Wet wood and bad weather is one of the big reasons why it takes so long to build here. I see quite a few houses going up under canopies, wish I'd thought of it a few years back. I don't know if I-joists are used here or not, I'd be leery of them though,if they contain OSB- there's a kind of black sooty mold here that seems to thrive on it. Guessing maybe it's the urea glue in it?

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#23
Thanks Hutch, always good to hear from you. Does the county publish a list of local code requirements different from the 91ubc.

I'll take that you advise against the use of osb in building here on the Island because of the mold issues, yes?


guess I wasn't tofar off from thinking large canopy tarp over the building site then. I use to have a 50 x 100 white nylon i'd use for company BBQs in the threat of rain. guess I better find me another.

1 more question, Is there an outfit that privately drills holes in lava for utility poles, I was thinking of bringing 2 to make a swing with, the higher the better for a nice long ground level swing, maybe I'll bring 4 have them set and tie off the tarp to them keep the rain and the sun off my achy breaky back.

Aloha Pal, HADave

Aloha HADave & Mz P

Hawaiian Acres

The best things in life are free.... or have no interest or payments for one full year.



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#24
quote:
1 more question, Is there an outfit that privately drills holes in lava for utility poles, I was thinking of bringing 2 to make a swing with, the higher the better for a nice long ground level swing, maybe I'll bring 4 have them set and tie off the tarp to them keep the rain and the sun off my achy breaky back.

Aloha Pal, HADave




Here you go Dave, this from a post on the Fern Acres yahoo group a couple months ago:

If you want to put in 4" steel poles call Delima drilling. They charge
$750.00 to install the first pole and $200 for each one after that. It
includes drilling three holes for the first pole, one for the pole and two
others for the ground rods. You get your poles and ground rods on site and
they stand them up and pour them in as part of the cost. He can also
provide the poles. Make sure you provide another ground rod for your
service panel pole if you are doing more than one pole.
Take the 4" coupling sleeve you get with the pole and some flat 1/8" plate
from Hilo Steel and call Bob Wiggers at 968-7551, and he will weld the
plate on the sleeve so you don't have to pay $43.00 for a 4" cap. Bob
lives at the front of Plumeria at the eggs for sale sign about pole 5-6.
I recommend that you wire up the first pole and then after you have power
from HELCO run your wire back to your other poles and service panel.
It takes about 4 weeks to get power if you do it this way. Also Central
Supply has a pretty good price on poles.

aloha,
Gene

_________________________

"I've been on food stamps and welfare, did anybody help me out? No." - Craig T. Nelson
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#25
In Nov '05, 4 inch galvanized pipe, 21 ft length from Central Supply was $193.00 plus tax.
If you need a cut, another $3.50 per cut.
I now have 9 of them standing 10 ft above ground, 5 ft in ground (concrete) patiently awaiting the 4x10 beams they will support.

David

Ninole Resident
Ninole Resident
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#26
Gentleman, Thanks for your input...Aloha

Aloha HADave & Mz P

Hawaiian Acres

The best things in life are free.... or have no interest or payments for one full year.



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#27
Well, got a bid on cement slab for our smaller
house. 20'x 24' square. plus 13'x 4' landing,plus 3'- 3'6" landing. $4734.00
tax is in that price. wire and hardware is also
included. More than I expected. But need to get
started so looks like I may go with it. Building in Seaview.

"Yearn to understand first and to be understood second."
-- Beca Lewis Allen
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#28
Wyatt - If I figure correctly, that's about $8.73/sf. I was told day before yesterday that some are charging $16/sf Sad
One of the "surprises" for me was the transportation charge. For my last two truckloads, hauling charge was $820 or $41/yd. This is to Ninole, about 21 miles from Hilo/Glover. The concrete was $73/yd.

David

Ninole Resident
Ninole Resident
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#29
In response to HADave's concerns about building in the rain. I'm a carpenter currently living in the Seattle-Tacoma area, and we get alot of rain here as well. If we couldn't build in the rain, we wouldn't be building anything. If you are using the proper subfloor/decking adhesive it will set up wet or not, just get a good bead on there and make sure your nailing is good(I like to go 4-6" on the perimeter and 12' in the field). If you have doubts about that method you can always screw your deck off(more time and expense, and not really worth it in my opinion). As long as you are not allowing standing water to stay on your deck for months, it will be fine.
When it comes to the best foudation/deck method, it's my opinion that concrete columns with subgrade footings with a slightly above grade slab, and a raised concrete deck to build off of is the way to go. At least that's how I'm going to do mine. You have a rock solid raised deck to build on, and depending on how much you want to raise the deck(8' for instance) you can have a garage/shop underneath your house. This is by no means a cheap foundation, but if built right will outlast you, your children, and their children, ect...
On top of that go metal studs for framing(termites have a hard time with these), and either metal or hardi plank siding (with wood trim to warm it up), and metal roof.
A house built this way will last many generations (unless of course Madam Pele decides she wants it).
Only 16 more days!!
Aloha,
Mark

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#30
I was just poking around on Honsador's website ( Thanks Emily) I see that they have treated I-joists as well as steel framing material. I used these steel studs in an Automotive shop of mine a while back, for all the interior partitions they were very easy to work with and made quite a strong wall after the sheetrock was complete. They also make framing round corners a snap like a curved wall or breakfast bar, You diy's can frame up with no more than a screw gun and tinsnips for building tools. I used lots of blocking for things like where shelves would be or a row at picture height from the floor, just so you can have something to nail to when decorating. Like Mark said termites would have a hard time chewing on these. Those interior studs I bought then 1994 were 1.69 each while wood was 3.19 2x4x8 I hope the percent of savings is still there. I would think that there must be a savings when combining steel framing with hardipanel & 5/8 sheetrock from ones hazard insurance.

Aloha HADave & Mz P

Hawaiian Acres

The best things in life are free.... or have no interest or payments for one full year.



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