Foundations and Floors

[jm minica]

I would suggest that everyone begin to change their paradigm on framing away from wood, to metal and other composit materials. The transition has already begun, and in the not so distant future, using dimesional lumber will be all but a memory. It's far easier to get a strait, square, and plumb structure using metal(which just happens to be perfectly suited for Hawaii conditions), than wood. Wood composit materials will remain for many more years than dimensional lumber will, i.e. tji's, paralam, glue lam, ply wood, and many other wodd/resin composits. Trex, and similar products are another example of materials that would be well suited for Hawaii. I know some people prefer the natural look of wood, but we really do need to start thinking on some of these things for the good of the planet.
Aloha,
Mark
p.s. these are just my opinions, sometimes I ramble.....

[nanasohana]

Everyone really should consider Castleblock Products if you can and I really like the Tridipanels with Shotcrete....oh well, maybe someday!

[David M]

Yep, I got over 4000 sf (190 pieces) of ProTEC (Castleblock) panels delivered last Friday. They now sit out in the rain and I'm not concerned a bit. Rob and I did an inventory yesterday - excellent service.

David

Ninole Resident

Edited by - David M on 01/26/2006 01:29:38

[Naomi W]

David,
Are you going to put the house together yourself? How heavy are each panel? I am sure all of us will be interested in how easy they are to use. Thanks !
Naomi

[David M]

Yes Naomi, we are.
Panels are different sizes, basically, 90% precut for the job, although still a couple of field cuts to make. Our standard (uncut) panels are 36 in wide by 8', 9', & 10 ' long. Weight is 4.25 lb/sf, so a 3'X10'=30sfX4.25=127.5 lbs. I think I have less fullsize 10 ftrs (15) than any other, but mostly 8's (86) at only 102 lbs each. I will most likely stack a few on my tractor forks to move to area of use, then just have to stand each one up and jockey into position.
I will definitely be posting progress and pictures.
We are seriously considering acid staining our concrete floors and about 90% convinced to do so before erecting any walls, but have to do a tad more research first. Our first slabs will be poured next week and have to wait 28 days before acid staining.

David

Ninole Resident

[David D]

Hi David,

At one time I was seriously considering cement slab construction and having the slab acid stained. I have seen some really nice acid stained cement floors.
I spoke with several cement guys and the major concern was cracking. I was told that most (but not all) cement will crack over time – sometimes early & sometime after several years – and while that might be okay in a garage or an out-building, these guys felt it would not be a good idea for the interior of a home. So I sort of put that idea aside.

Good Luck!
David D

[Lee G]

Seems like here in Hawaii where we go barefoot inside the house a hard concrete floor to walk on day in and day out would not be my first choice.
JMHO
Lee

[Naomi W]

Thanks David, I will look forward to the posts and PICTURES.
Naomi

Edited by - Naomi W on 01/26/2006 11:24:16

[emily]

Here's a link to a company that does acid stained concrete work here if anyone is interested: http://www.beaudetearthworksinc.com/

[jm minica]

Unless you are getting poorly mixed concrete, a raised slab(built correctly of course) will out last a wood framed deck many times over. As far as the surface you walk on, generally you apply whatever flooring you desire on top of the concrete deck, which makes it all but unnoticable. There are many different types of shock absorbing underlayment materials available that go on under your flooring to give it a softer feel. I plan on going with wood and tile on top of mine when I do it.
Once again, just my opinion....
Aloha,
Mark