Foundations and Floors

[Carey]

Mella, from your commenton gas, there are only a couple of stations that we have found that pump for you. ('76 in Keaau offers mini-serve at the pumps near the station & there was one station off of Hai-hai that was only attendant service, both offered this service at no additional cost), did you find another station?
It is better to have solid flat rock for your foundation to sit on. If there is any earth movement, the base that your foundation is set on will not ease out from under the foundation. When you set your rebar, the epoxy will form a chemical bound that is actually stronger than the concrete, so this will create a very strong link in your foundation.
Aloha, Carey

[Hotzcatz]

Attaching the house foundation solidly to rock will transmit the full effects of any earthquakes directly to the structure of the house. Most slabs are set on at least 6" of compacted gravel. Post and pier foundationss have the piers strapped to the posts but not usually attached to the ground. The piers are usually set on either "undisturbed" soil or on bedrock. Otherwise the soil needs to be compacted. In an earthquake, the piers may move in relationship to the ground, but they will hopefully still be attached to the bottom of the posts.

Actually, in the older houses (prior to 1930 or so), they just set the posts on rocks and eventually the rocks would wander. Then they upgraded to concrete blocks. For the longest time, it was stacked "tofu" blocks. One big block 16"x16"x8" with a smaller 8"x8"x6" block set on that. A square termite pan and the post just set on top of that. I used to nail the pan to the bottom of the post so the pan would hold it in place somewhat. Now you can choose between a precast concrete footing with either one or two straps. I find the two strap ones easier to move around since you can put a big nail through the holes in the straps and with a stick through the straps move the footing easily with two people.

The County now requires the 4' wide shear walls at the corners of the houses. That was in effect since several years ago. If you have an architect or engineer design the plans, then you can have a different foundation.

After Hurricane Ewa (or was it Iniki? I forget) anyway, after the hurricanes, then they started "wind load" concerns. You are supposed to have a "load path" every four feet around the perimeter of your home. This means some sort of either solid lumber or metal strap to attach everything together. The piers are strapped to the posts, the posts are attached with a simpson tie to the rim joists, then every four feet along the rim joist the stud has to have a simpson tie top and bottom. The top strap gets to attach the stud to the rafters as well. There is also more bracing at gable ends.

All this will help your house stay standing in a hurricane, but will do little to protect it from the 100 mph flying coconuts.

[mella l]

Thanks Rob and Carey. I feel more secure now having this information. I was worried I'd need to rip and I want to avoid that for aesthetic reasons. I'm probably one of the few who hoped for some lava to landscape around. Guess I'll have to import a few large lava rocks to use in our yard! LOL.

The Chevron station on the Bay Front in Old Hilo Town has attendant service and the price per gallon is the same as the other stations. I thought it was island wide, as in Oregon it is state wide. So always learning yes! And about those 100MPh coconuts, yikes Hotzcatz I haven't even begun to worry about Hurricanes yet!!! LOL

mella l

Edited by - mella l on 02/20/2006 13:50:33

[nanasohana]

Hey Mella,
When they dig your cesspool or septic, you may get lots of rocks for landscaping so I would not buy till you see what you get from the digging.

[mella l]

Good point Nancy! I didn't think about that, oh good free rock! Guess I need to slow down and not put the cart before the horse! Hey if we don't get enough from the septic/cesspool then I might be able to hit up my friends for some too !!
Mahalo, Mella L

mella l

[pam jones]

Hey Mella! You want rocks? Just come across the street to my place, I have plenty. Pam3

[pam jones]

I might have screwed-up. I had Bryson's deliver two truck loads of cinder because I was tired of walking like I was on eggshells on our lot of rubble. Now, I think I am going to have to dig down to the blue rock in order to put the 100lb concrete posts on secure footing. Any insights, experiences or suggestions from some one who has been there built that would be most helpful as I sure don't want to get mr inspector man mad at me right off the bat. Mucho mahalo!pj

[HADave]

Aloha Fishboy Brian, There is a wealth of info in this and the next thread (slab or post & pier) enjoy

Aloha HADave

[Fishboy]

To HADave:
Oh my, my, my. There's such a wealth of information for we newbies! Thanks so much for putting me onto the thread. I have exactly zero experience with home construction and the more I read the less I know. Good thing I've got at least a couple of years to become more familiar with all this stuff and, heck, I see the real estate prices are headed down on the BI. I may find something already built when I finally make that move.

Big-time mahalo-nui,
Brian (Fishboy)

PS, There's a lady in my office who's from Oahu (born and raised), and we share a love of the islands. She speaks Hawaiian and taught me a new word yesterday: Pakalolo (wacky tobacky). I personally don't indulge, but I find it amazing how these things get translated from one culture to another.

[Hotzcatz]

*****I might have screwed-up. I had Bryson's deliver two truck loads of cinder because I was tired of walking like I was on eggshells on our lot of rubble. Now, I think I am going to have to dig down to the blue rock in order to put the 100lb concrete posts on secure footing. *****
Aloha Pam,

Unfortunately, the answer is "Yes" you will have to remove the cinders from under the footing blocks. However, be happy you aren't pouring a slab, then you'd have to remove the cinders from the entire underslab area. (I did that once. Ouch!)

A hui hou,
Cathy