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how is water bypassing sediment filter?!
#21
quote:
For now the water is still coming out of the spigots and the housings aren't leaking... good enough for now.


It's possible that your lines are incrusted inside walls of pipe and or similarly, junk within the system. .

As an example of reference; if you've ever lived in an old house with steel pipe. Rust, calcium and other can line the inner walls of the pipe. heck if lived in L.A. albeit, NY might be worse [grin] where the most junk is added, it could happen in younger homes too. But, regardless, if you seen this, what happens when a facet hasn't been opened in a while, it runs red., Rusty looking until those walls are flushed. Actually it's only red because of the oxide bleeding from the steal that can't be prevented otherwise, it's not all rust but 99.99%, [estimated] the junk from water company, calcium and other stuff that's either not filtered out or added, sticking to the walls inside the pipe, and oxide has colored it. . .

In absence of other problems, such as; verifying your storage or input water is clean, hasn't been cluttered via another source. Which, incidentally, would be my 2nd choice after verifying the filter and system seems OK, is too check for debris and or noticeable settlement in the tank.

Otherwise, perhaps, because, when you're changing to a new, fresh, or otherwise filter, etc. While it may 'seem' clean. The pressure, rushing water, will increase faster than normal until it's balanced. . Like rusty pipes, Your filter is clogging sooner or absorbing debris due to that.

And or any other part in the system effecting the flow has crap which, the burst, after reassembly and start up is rushing through until it's slowed.

Another filter, pre-filer before it and others, up stream. Increased flow could be disturbing it, anything in the stream from tank up to exit flow should be investigated for hidden crud. Including as mentioned prior, 'the joker' in the deck, , 'plumber' who installed your pipe, did the dumb, butt-head, slap and go in his glue job. Elbows, couplings and other glued connections leaking and absorbing dirt. And or, alternately, inexperienced home owner, want-to-be repair, tool man tony, [grin] , do it your self guy, cutting corners.

PVC needs to be primed correctly to clean and soften, even if it's brand spanking new, just cooled, directly from the factory. and a thorough, not just thick, wasteful, but thoroughly covered coating of glue over freshly applied primer, on both pieces being joined. {I see pro work on PVC piping slapped together poorly, so frequently, I'd like to write the county and ask em WITF we pay for county services to insure it's installed correctly??!! ! err.]
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#22
I helped a friend install a new floating water intake similar to mine well over a year ago. Upon start-up he had a lot of trouble with air in the lines. This seemed to get better but he did occasionally still have some air in the lines. About 6 months ago I again helped him install a tubular steel tank cover support over the tank. We bumped the suction line that goes up and over the lip of the tank and it fell apart. Nobody had glued that joint! It operated almost satisfactorily for many months.
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#23
Well... I got to the bottom of the mystery!

The sediment filters I had been buying were the wounded string variety without the plastic tube in the middle and the last batch I bought does have a plastic tube. The sediment filter housing is REALLY squirrelly, it's really tough to get the filter in right the first time. With the untubed filters if the top portion wasn't perfectly center the filter still worked like it was supposed to, with this other type of filter it has to be PERFECT or most of the water bypasses the filter. Basically, the housing sucks and the untubed filters are very forgiving and the tubed variety are not forgiving at all.

Lesson learned!
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#24
It doesn't hurt to pick up one complete filter housing and store it.They always break on a Sunday when it'll be hard to find one. And one filter housing can be used in either position of first or second filter. I've had to replace two, one at our house and one at our daughter's. I cracked our housing when changing filters, as that housing didn't have the mounting bracket to sturdy it. Oddly, at my daughter's, her housing blew the bottom out of it.
Also, you can order filters through Amazon if you want. I try to keep a few of the two sizes we use. The filters seem to be pretty well universal, as they will work with other brand housings. But, the stupid o'rings are not. My o'rings last for many filter changes.



Jon in Keaau/HPP
Jon in Keaau/HPP
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#25
You are right... I should have a backup housing. My limited plumbing experience is all self-taught. How hard are they to replace? I guess what I'd really like to do is replace my current housing with a clear one and then keep the existing unit as the backup. I don't know why they installed a crappy and opaque housing for the sediment filter and a nice clear one for the 5 micron. I would have preferred they both be clear. Maybe one was a replacement.

Not sure what you mean about the o-rings. I've never replaced one. I did buy a spare but I have never had to use it.
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#26
We also have an opaque blue one for the 30 micron, and a clear one for the 5 micron. The one at my daughter's was easy. Ours at our house a bit tougher. Ours originally had solid white plastic lines. When I replaced the cracked housing, I put in one or two unions, to make it easier next time.

You can buy either the blue, or clear housing at the catchment place just off Makuu in HPP. The various companies that make the housing make them so that the actual screw on canister from one maker, will not fit the top/head from any other brand.

You can also buy one from Amazon. The guy at the catchment place in HPP told me that the large o'rings are not interchangeable from one maker to the next. He says to bring in your old o'ring, and he'll try to match it. I use a small dab of a silicone grease on the o'ring to lube it and help make it last. Omni brand housing and o'rings are carried by HPM in Hilo.

Jon in Keaau/HPP
Jon in Keaau/HPP
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#27
Glad you mentioned Silicone grease. Vaseline, and other lubricants can destroy an o- ring by its petroleum base. I prefer to use the food grade silicone lubricant I get on Amazon. I just spray a little bit on a q-tip and wipe the seal, then assemble. Works great on car weatherstripping as well, but the food grade part is not necessary for that stuff unless your dog likes to chew on it, but that's another problem.

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