Building a cabin under $6000 possible?

[Palanakonu]

I have a small plot of land in Ka'u I'm wanting to toss a 16x24 shed roof cabin on. It's flatter than flat, a few inches of topsoil over untouched pahoehoe, in a small place well protected by trees.

While I want to build it as cost effective as possible, I see myself spending more and more time here and likely making it more permanent as time goes on.

Looking for input from people who have built similar things, or just know more than I do.

Considering the precast blocks with straps, 3 rows of 4 and making the girders/beams out of doubled up treated 2x8x12 intersecting over a post/footing.
Building the joists on top of that out of treated 2x8x16 at 24"oc with blocking if I can get away with it, or going with 16"oc if the 24 is not a good idea.

From there, 3/4" sheathing for the flooring, no internal load bearing walls. 2x4 at 16"oc for the external walls with the rafters being treated (is treated necessary here?) 2x8 at 24"oc (once again, willing to change that if I'm off the mark - 16ft span is pretty big though).

Front part of shed will be 12ft sloping down to 8ft in the rear... figure that'd be a decent enough pitch. So I'll have to build the front up and likely toss in some clearstory windows.

T1-11 siding all around nailed directly into the studs.
2ft (or more) overhand. But rain where I'm building it is nothing compared to Puna.

5/8" sheathing on top of the rafters, reflective barriar, and then 2x4 purlins before the metal roofing. Leaving the internal ceiling open beamed... no need for any additional weight up there.

This is what I am thinking, and feels cost effecting. Now I'm wandering where I may have gone wrong and what I might want to add a little more money into just to make it more structurally sound... or please tell me if I just went about this completely wrong.

I am wanting to do this below $6k if possible... but we all know how that goes.

[Palanakonu]

After posting this, I believe that 24"oc for the joists and rafters is a little foolhardy. So instead of fixing my post, I'll just admit to my own foolishness here and agree that 16"oc for joists, studs, and rafters is the best way to go - especially when dealing with 2x4 and 2x8 lumber.

[kalakoa]

This book was incredibly helpful. Recommended.

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Guide-Ba...580114830/

Floor beams are usually 4x instead of doubled 2x.

A continuous 4x wall header makes it easier to install a bunch of windows and/or sliding glass doors in that wall.

Look at "smartside" instead of T1-11.

Never forget that "wood sucks".

[randomq]

I think you could do it roughed in for 4-5k, not counting premade windows and doors. Easy to make your own door, and screen+shutters can suffice in place of most windows. Built-in counters, shelves, and lofts are cheap and will strengthen your home if they tie together adjacent walls. Save money by buying second hand or cut-off roofing, simpson ties off craigslist or transfer stations, etc. There are a few places you can get leftover paint.

Smartboard and variants are often cheaper and longer lasting than T1-11. Metal even better. Come to think of it, consider a shipping container with wraparound lanai, or one of Rob's metal farm buildings with a lanai. Might save you a lot of hassle if the design appeals to you.

[Palanakonu]

quote:

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Originally posted by kalakoa
Floor beams are usually 4x instead of doubled 2x.

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Not sure who the old codger was that told me when I was younger, but I grew up under the impression that built up beams were more advantageous than full width (aka, 2-2x8 instead of 1-4x8). So I've always build outbuilding beams that way.

quote:

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Originally posted by randomq
I think you could do it roughed in for 4-5k...

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Glad to hear, and my price was based on a finished outer shell - no inside finished walls, fixtures, etc - and with a minimum of windows. I figured if I could hit my price mark on that then I could start with the "upgrades" such as french doors, etc.
I've looked at Rob's metal outbuildings. Nice, but really destroys my budget on this. I do know the advantages of them though.

I'm doing my first builds in Hawai'i - man is the cost of lumber something! I'm just pricing it with online Lowes/HD to get an idea, hoping one of the local yards in Hilo can give me a better price. Any tips on who that might be?

Any tips on the framing (joists or rafters)? Would 24"oc be doable in this? When using Simpson ties and a low pitch like this, can I avoid a birdsmouth cut on the rafters?

I have just enough experience to make me dangerous and have learned everything I know by making mistakes. But I do love doing things myself, especially considering I am broke!

[kalakoa]

Always remember that a shed or shack simply doesn't have the dead load of "conventional" construction.

Rafters can be spaced 48". Tin roof just isn't that heavy compared to plywood and shingles.

Birdsmouth cut is unnecessary at a low pitch such as 1:12, but really needed at 4:12.

A doubled-2x is only 85% the strength of a single-4x.

[kalakoa]

Joist spacing is a function of span, joist size, and plywood rating.

Nominal size-spacing/span from some book I had laying around:

2x8 @ 16" = 13'
2x8 @ 24" = 10'

2x10 @ 16" = 16'
2x10 @ 24" = 14'

A mid-span girder might be cheaper than bigger/closer joists.

Subfloor can be thinner as the joists are closer together. I think the 1.125" subfloor can run over joists spaced at 48", but it's also something like $70/sheet.

[Palanakonu]

Ah thanks kalakoa. This actually forced me to pull out an old book I have and take a look at span tables and such.
I find myself too ornery from time to time to look things up online like normal folk.

I might just be able to build a decent little "shabin" on this plot of land using what cash I have.

[randomq]

Cost compare with argus. He does $25 or free delivery and I've liked all his wood except the studs. He is usually more expensive on siding though.

Floor joists definitely go 16oc. For a single story you could go 24oc for everything else usually. Less than 1:12 many people skip the birdsmouth. I did them for a 2:12 roof, not so bad.

[Tink]

If you go 24 inch spacing on studs, your top plate can be single, instead of double if roof rafters fall in line with the studs (24 inch center as well). Again, savings. Most efficient I have found is a modified post and lintel type construction with 4x4 posts on sides of door and Windows, 24 inch spacing studs between, while most of design on a 2 foot grid pattern excepting front door (36"). A four foot section could be 1/2 siding, 1/2 glass for light and ventilation, etc. look at Eichler homes on the net, he built in the 60's using the 2 foot grid pattern, as it matches lumber lengths for minimal cutting on job site and material costs.

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