building material / tools

[wyatt]

I Bought a 360 degree laser level kit from Costco yesterday. Not as extensive as the ones HADAVE discribed earlier. It was discounted from $39.99 to $29.99. I bought it to try while setting my water catchment tank. If I like it,I will upgrade. I am used to using an Optical level and water level so it will be interesting for me to see the pros & cons of laser.

wyatt

[HADave]

I'm bringing this forward so it doesn't become out of site out of mind.

I also want to put this tool here as well.
The Proctor Wall Jack is an invaluable tool for both the serious DIY as well as any small contractor without a large crew.

www.proctorp.com/wallproducts/instructions_p1.html

[David M]

This looks to be a reasonable source for tools:

http://www.toolking.com/

I just broke down ansdbought a rotary laser lever - DeWalt DW071KD Factory Reconditioned Rotary Laser Kit with Detector and Clamp (not self leveling). Cost was $230 plus shipping. Fedex to HI was $66. Still very good price for this tool.

I have several leveling tasks ahead of me and felt this was a worthy investment. I have used a little indoor laser and found it quite an asset for setting wall tile - easy to turn the corner, jump a door etc.

I hope to use the new laser this weekend to set the level of my beam supports for my tractor/utility shed - they are 10ft off the ground.

BTW, this type laser does NOT do angles, just a vertical (plumb) or horizonal (elevation) line.
David

Ninole Resident

[HADave]

quote:

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The borate is not suitable for ground contact protection and a barrier should always be employed between wood and concrete. The borate will not lessen the strength of the wood itself but you sould keep a few things in mind.

Plates are where the concrete meets the wood frame. Plates are also where the most weight load occurs (compression). This is why the highest grade of lumber is
normally specified for plates. Most Doug Fir lumber has a flat compressive strength of about 1,000 psi (I believe). Not bad but not that great either.

It is not desirable, over time, for a low grade wood to be used in this position so care should be used in choosing the right wood grade for the house plates.

U. Hawaii, Manoa entomology department does a lot of termite testing. In presentations I have attended the entomologist explained that there used to be very effective treatments for termites. They were so toxic however that the EPA has banned them now for a number of years.



He also said that the hi-bor (borate) treatments now used have proven to be effective in their termite mound tests for approx. 3 years. Not too impressive in my opinion.

When using hi-bor treated lumber you should buy a gallon of hi-bor and every cut end and every rip should be dipped or brushed with the hi-bor treatment. To not do so simply compromises the treatment. Though borate is pressure treated it does not penetrate completely into the lumber. The larger the beam/post the less penetration.






A chain is only as good as it's weakest link. I have never yet seen a local carpenter do this. Only owner/builders seem to care.



Edited by - Rob Tucker on 11/26/2005 18:55:08

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I'm singling you out Rob ) First because of this post and second because of your expertise. Could you give me your take on the information in this article, under the paragraph titled termite treatments. It speaks very highly of the boron-based wood treatment currently being used in Hawaii. They claim it penetrates completely because it is diffusible and end cut teatments are not needed also HPM offers a 20 year warranty on Hi-Bor, in their home planning guide, as long as the ground beneath the structure is pretreated.

Just trying to get all my little duckies in one row there are a few that seem to be astray )

Aloha HADave


http://www.buildingindustryhawaii.com/de...r_wood.asp





Edited by - HADave on 10/26/2006 14:08:53

[HADave]

Carey, in one of your last posts under Earthquake Construction you mention the unavailability of exterior treated lumber. Perhaps we can get Royall in on this as well because from the looks of his last photos his stair posts appear to be treated other than Hi-Bor. Royall can you comment, I would really like to know before we come if ACQ or a reasonable facsimile is going to be available.

Thanks for helping me sort this out )

Aloha Always HADave

[HADave]

From all I continue to read about Hi-bor, the perfered wood treatment used in construction on The Island, the more it becomes apparent just how effective and environmental friendly the treatment is. Completely safe for humans and animals yet found very undesirable by termites and other wood boring insects. Here are yet a few more very good articles supporting its use and putting it's worthiness to rest.

http://www.durable-wood.com/pdfs/borate-eng1oct02.pdf

http://www.durable-wood.com/termites/Termites6S.pdf (see page 7 beginning thru 8 specifically)

The product seems to have been in use now for at least 10 years and is still going strong showing no signs of envolvement by termites, they nibble and leave/move on.

Another plus I see is the treatment has no effect of discoloration and accepts wood stains as untreated wood does so it can become an excellant choice for material used as wood trim and cabinet construction inside the home. The process for plywood/OSB is different then lumber but is as effective. I see this an incentive for one to seek out custom cabinetry and trim millwork.

Aloha HADave





Edited by - HADave on 11/01/2006 05:05:56

[Royall]

Hi Dave. Sorry I didn't respond sooner. As far as the posts at my house go they are all Hi-Bor. I gather that most anything else is not allowed. I was down in Hawaiian Beaches at a owner/build home and the owner was concerned about the inspector seeing he used some pressure treated (has all the holes in it) lumber for part of his house. The material was brought over from the mainland and I get the feeling the concern is all about ground contamination from the chemicals leaching out of the wood. But cesspools are OK?

Royall

What goes around comes around!

[Kapohocat]

HADave - might want to talk with carpenters who work with that stuff in the rain... gets all over them (the borate treatment).

Cesspools ok? I agree - get rid of cesspools, keep CCA.

[HADave]

Thanks Royall, I guess the last photos of your stair work just appear different anyway perhaps one more question to you then. Do they make you put some sort of barrier between the posts/stair risers and concrete. If so from the photos yours appear different than Don & Leks home as their's clearly overhang the pier. I presume the shields come precut to accept the post straps but then again that seems to defeat the shielding by having holes.

I'm hoping Catz & Cat can comment on what county says about approved material-- Is it Hi-Bor only? Do your drawings specify under specifications/materials list what materials are being used, other than size?

Alohas HADave

[Royall]

Dave, Don has metal caps that go over the pier. All that is called for is a piece of 30lb felt roofing paper to keep the wood away from the concrete.

Royall

What goes around comes around!