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Poisoning weeds in HPP
#11
Hello,

Where can you get such a thing? Home Depot or Ace or ????

thank you,

Stan

quote:
You can get Glystar (or is it Glcol?) - same thing as round up but 25% cheaper? And there are some products that can make the round up stick to vegetation in the rain...



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#12
I don't plan on planting anything at the time right now, but do want a clear area in case my daughters decide to play out there.

I do intend to grow grass in the future, but there is red cinder out there, and don't think grass will grow on it.

I wish I took pictures to show you guys the weed overgrowth. Majority is about 12" tall, with some larger ones going above 24".

I guess I should weed wack the larger ones, and spray round up when they do come up, as you stated in your response.

Thank you very much!
Keep the suggestions coming!

Stan

quote:
Hi Stan,
The method would probably depend on a couple of things. First,how high are the weeds? The higher and thicker the weeds, the more product will be needed to do a thorough job, ergo higher cost and more difficulty in getting them all. Second, what are you planning to do with the space and how soon? Round-Up requires at least a week to work and then a waiting period to replant, depending on what it is. I am not certain about the waiting period, so you should read the label or go to their website for more details.

Some folks use a combination method on really thick, high weeds. Weed whack to reduce the volume of plant material, rake and compost the cut weeds, wait a week or so for the inevitable regrowth from the roots, and then spray. This not only saves money, but makes the removal of the dead plant material somewhat easier and reduces the amount of chemical put into the environment. It is not only hard to thoroughly spray waist-high weeds, but removing them after they die is a pain.

I wish it was easy, cheap, and simple. Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Jerry



Edited by - JerryCarr on 06/26/2007 08:23:39



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#13
quote:
I don't plan on planting anything at the time right now, but do want a clear area in case my daughters decide to play out there.



This gave me cheeken skeen. I don't care what it says on the label, I don't trust Monsanto (mfr of RoundUp). I wouldn't use herbicides on a future play area for my kids.
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#14
I guess I'm just stuck with weedwacking.

Either that or I buy a lot of vinegar, and perhaps I dilute it with some water.

Stan

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#15
Stan,
Do not dilute the vinegar with water. If you dilute it it most likely will not work, since it was already stated it only works on more tender plants as it is.

Allen
Baton Rouge, LA & HPP
Allen
Finally in HPP
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#16
quote:
Hello,

Where can you get such a thing? Home Depot or Ace or ????

thank you,

Stan

quote:
You can get Glystar (or is it Glcol?) - same thing as round up but 25% cheaper? And there are some products that can make the round up stick to vegetation in the rain...







HPM and Farmer's Exchange carry it.
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#17
You might talk to the manager of Garden Exchange in Hilo ... very knowledgable guy ... I have spaced his name, someone help me? Al? Jerry? *arghh* They also sell the chemicals, but if money is an object you can compare with Home Depot.

I agree about herbicide use and child play areas being a bad combo.

First, you are not going to get weed free here ... too many rampant weeds and no dormant season, so don't expect to win the battle, only to semi-prevail. Best thing is to plant a strong competitor.

However, if you can keep your weeds from going to seed you can make progress. Weedwhack them before they seed and eventually they will wear themselves out trying to reproduce and then you're down to what the birds and wind spread around.

The existing weeds are seeding, no doubt, but whack 'em anyway and keep whackin', and don't leave the trimmings that are full of seeds lying on the ground.



Edited by - KathyH on 07/05/2007 21:29:52
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#18
Geez, I just talked to the real knowledgeable guy at Garden Exchange today.... is his name is Jeffrey(?)
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#19
The active ingredient in Roundup (Monsanto trade name) is glyphosphate (n-phosphonomethylglycine) and it went off patent about 1-1/2 years ago so it is available as a cheaper generic. You will find it at various dilutions from ready to use (.1%??) to 50% concentrate at garden centers. Look at both the volume and the concentration when doing price comparisons. One "trick" I recommend is to add about 1 tablespoon of dish washing detergent for every end gallon. Many weeds have a waxy or hairy coating on the leaves that prevent the spray from coating the leaves. Detergent contain surficants that reduce surface tension to combat the tendency to form droplets that fall off the leaf. You can also use something like jet dry but it is more expensive. I use the cheapest dish washing detergent I can find because they typically foam less.

You need to make sure you spray on a very still day/time of day to keep over spray from getting on desirable plants. The good thing about glyposphate is that it is not chemically stable like DDT so it breaks down within a few days if it is not absorbed into the plants through the leaves. It works by inhibiting a enzyme specific to plants starving it to death so it may take several weeks for it to work, depending on the plant. Glyphosphate can also be absorbed through the skin so I always shower after spraying.


Larry
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#20
I decided to pull the weeds by hand because it is free, and doesn't spread the seedlings as quick as weedwacking.

It was a ton of work, but I think it is worth it.

Stan

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