termite prevention?

[force]

Just a quick question about bulding a wooden home on a slab here. What can you do during construction to prevent termite infestations?

My grandparents in florida have a system where tubing was placed under the slab, and every year they fill that tubing with pesticide. It treats under the slab without drilling holes. Does anyone offer anything like that here? Any other suggestions?

Matt

[Carey]

University of Hawaii has developed a Basaltic Termite Barrier marketed under the name Ameron Hawaii. This is a non-pesticide route, should be as permanent as you slab base (unless the termites learn how to dig this stuff...)
Info: http://www2.hawaii.edu/~entomol/pdf_files/hsp-3.pdf

We have seen a couple of applications of this in HPP...so you should be able to get it here (unless those were tests...)

[hpp4me]

This is probably a dumb question, but not the last one I'll ask. Since these termites can "swarm" I take it that this means they can fly. Why would a barrier stop them? Wouldn't they just fly over it?

[Les C]

There are basically two kinds of termites causing problems in Hawaii: Formosan Ground Termites and Drywood Flying Termites. The former can grind their way through concrete and form large colonies (thousands of indiv.) that can weaken a wooden home in short order. I believe this is the reason why termite inspectors' reports are only valid for about two weeks; a lot can happen in that time with termites. The Drywood termites have smaller colonies (~200 indiv.) and their damage typically progresses slowly and is more limited.

The frass (dust) that they leave behind is different. The drywood termite frass looks like fluted barrels when viewed under a magnifying glass. Ground termite frass lacks the fluting. Be aware that ants can leave behind a frass-like deposit.

Ground termites don't seem to be active at higher elevations; drywood can occur at higher elevations, although to a lesser extent than at low elev.

But don't take my word for it, consult with someone who really knows what they're talking about.

[mella l]

http://www.askthebugman.com/ This site might be of help. He does excellent articles in our newspaper.

mella l

[Rob Tucker]

I know your question is specifically about building a wooden home on a slab. As a carpenter myself I simply came to the conclusion that the best way to deal with termites (and a host of other problems) was to just stop building with wood.

There are a variety of other methods to choose from.

But getting back to your original question:

After the EPA banned most all effective treatments the industry was left with Boric Acid as the primary termite preventative treatment. I consider it weak tea but it is what the wood industry uses here - HiBor it is called.

One fact with Hi-Bor is that it is a treatment "system" not just a label on the stack of lumber. The chemical does not fully penetrate the wood. This means that the directions for use must be followed to be effective. The directions include that when treated lumber is cut the freshly exposed wood must be also treated with Hi-Bor. This can be done by brushing the chemical on or dipping it in the chemical. Neglect this process and the system is compromised. The termites will find the weakest link and exploit it.

So it is not enough to just buy Hi-Bor treated lumber.

It is sad to note that in my years here I have yet to see a "professional" carpenter take this effort. I have however seen owner builders do so.

Another as yet unmentioned technique concerns slab construction. Termites can penetrate very small cracks and openings in concrete. Most often these will occur where plumbing pipes and other conduits come up through the slab. What is desirable is to take a fine stainless steel mesh and some hose clamps and, prior to pouring the slab, wrap the pipes with SS mesh and clap in place. The mesh will be tightly embedded on these penetrations. Once again trying to address the weakest link.

Very often in construction the difference between a good job and an excellent job is just a little more effort.

[Kapohocat]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Rob Tucker....It is sad to note that in my years here I have yet to see a "professional" carpenter take this effort. I have however seen owner builders do so.

---

I disagree. Most of the builders I refer to people do this. They also know that HiBor is crap in Hawaii. It's a good product where from mfg to installation is dry. But we get way too much rain here. Your lumber sits out in the weather. You might as well paint the whole board with termite treatment. Ah, for the good old days of CCA... (only sort of kidding!)

But Rob, you are so right in the using of non-wood materials so that termites can't have the all you can eat buffet.

[StillHope]

Rob,what kind of non-wood materials you recommend,where to buy them and how it will effect the price.Let's say,a house built with wood costs $100K.Non-wood would be-...?

[Rob Tucker]

I am a distributor for a number of alternative building materials and can direct you to my web site for more info. http://www.castleblock.com or you can call at your convenience - 965-1555.

It is possible and practical to build with non-wood methods for at or near the same price as conventional stick built methods. In my analysis wood framing is the poorest value for the money. One can always spend more of course, it is the American Way.

A lot of cost control is dependant on who is doing the work. Any budget can be shredded by inefficient or careless workers. If you happen to be a skilled carpenter that might incline you to keep on a wood path but problems like termites, rot and fire remain.

Basically though your choices aside from wood stick frame are various types of masonry, metal and composites of various materials.

The walls of my own home, for example, are made of 86% recycled polystyrene and cement - a product developed in Europe in the 1970's which has a projected lifespan of 200+ years with little or no maintenance. Could last longer. Time will tell.

[Carey]

Stillhope, there are many non-wood constructions, including SIP systems like Castleblock.... Your question would really depend upon which system you chose....
Simple things like using steel studs on non-support walls are fairly comparable in price with treated lumber.. but you still need to figure you support walls.... An aluminum framed SIP in todays market would be much more (however in the 70's there were a few built in Puna...when aluminum was very competitive...)
Earth homes, papercrete, Rasta Block, concrete bock (hollow tile), Gunite, brick... all of these are non-wood construction, all have different price points, ease of construction, & suitablitiy to this climate...
Rob is one to get ahold of on a professional level if you would like price quotes on some of these methods (he would probably need to know more on what you are looking to build & spend....)
David M is one of the forum members that has used the Casleblock SIP on slab, we are up-grading & re-doing a 70's aluminum framed SIP on slab.