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Pressure tank or tankless water system?
#11
Oink

"I designed my system to supply both of my houses. I have a very large tank. The well, tank, punp and softeners are about 30yrds away. The pipes leaving the system area start out 2" pvc and narrow down closer to the houses."

thanks for the info - it will be put to use! ...

"grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, splash"
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#12
aloha noel,

i don't know why grundfos is pushed by the people at waterworks, i've had to replace three systems in under a year each, starting with capacitor issues and the motor burning out...i told my contractor that i refuse to by anymore of these systems since they are very tempermental...nothing worse than having a pump not work when you need to flush the toilet or take a shower and it takes some time to get a replacement done.

noel
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#13
Thank you all for your replies. I have this set up in our rentals and so far the complaint has been that it is contributing to a high electric bill (from one client).

I think we've been able to convince them that rising rates are the culprit and not the pump. However, I thought I'd research more to determine if the pump set up is inherently inefficient.

Based on this, it looks like the main issues are noise, the lack of residual pressure in the event of a power outage, and (in the case of the Grundfos) failure of the capacitor and general failures.

Your feedback will influence what we install in the future. Once again - mahalo!


Noel
http://HiloParadise.com
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#14
I believe in using pressure tank personally, for reasons cited above. Don't know size of mine (sears) but the pump is a Grundfos.
So... if you have one of the Grundfos tankless, can't you just add a pressure tank?

David

Ninole Resident
Ninole Resident
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#15
Living with well water for 22 years I experienced no problems, mechanical or otherwise! Well 300 feet, pump smerged at 80 feet, bladder water pressure tank was 81 gallons.

The difference I see with the places I've stayed on the BI is the size of the pressure tanks. Smaller tanks recycle more frequently, which is more wear and tear, more noise, and not much reserve if the electricity goes out. Also the bladder on larger tanks keeps up the PSI, so I believe if it is sized correctly less electricity is necessary for the same amount of water used. This isn't scientific, just my experience. Sizing chart here

http://www.do-it-yourself-pumps.com/well...page24.pdf


mella l
mella l
Art and Science
bytheSEA
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#16
quote:
Originally posted by Les C

The fire on O'ahu is off this topic, as it is about a tankless water heater as a probable source, not a pressure-tankless pump. It could be a new thread. I did hear about this fire and it is interesting to know what the inspectors thought as to the source. Bad electrical wiring anywhere in a house could be a cause for a fire, not just an electric tankless water heater. Propane fixtures could be a fire source, but the gas apparently evaporates quickly, reducing its danger. Kerosene is difficult to ignite with a lit match or ember (but it does smell bad).


ah. yes. you are right. i went back and re-read the OP.

malia paha o lohe aku

perhaps they will hear
"a great many people think they are thinking when they are merely rearranging their prejudices."

w. james

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#17
quote:
Originally posted by David M

I believe in using pressure tank personally, for reasons cited above. Don't know size of mine (sears) but the pump is a Grundfos.
So... if you have one of the Grundfos tankless, can't you just add a pressure tank?

David

Ninole Resident


I believe the "on demand" tankless pump will keep the pressure constant so the pressure tank would become just an extension of your pipe. A system that requires a pressure tank has a pressure switch that turns the pump on when the pressure reaches the pre-set low point, and off when the pressure reaches the pre-set high point. We supply 40-60 pressure switches with our residential well systems. Sometimes we have used tanks or other equipment if anyone is interested.
Daniel R Diamond
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