single wall contruction

[caswellian]

I would like to build a home using single wall construction. I have never built one, but i have built at least 100 homes in Alaska and Washington state, and it appears to be a very clever and simple way to build.
Would one of these uninsulated homes be ok for use in the Fern Forest?

[caswellian]

I have also read that when you folks build with wood you use treated exclusively. Is this a necessity up high or do termites prevail
throughout the island? I have many other questions and would love to pick your brains.

[kaialoha]

Feel free to pick my brain. Retired construction/home builder/commercial builder/Landscape Architect here. No one has all the answers BUT asking never hurt ~ ~ ~

Re: 'single wall construction' (SWC) ~ Fern Forest ranges anywhere from 1,800 feet (+/-) and 2,800 feet (+/-) and so, of course, temperature and weather patterns are a concern. Many of the older homes in Hawaii were constructed with only a single exterior wall, which is what is referred to as 'single wall construction'. The original purpose of SWC was to save on costs because virtually all building material has to be shipped in from the mainland. SWC is possible in Hawaii primarily because there is no need to insulate against the cold, which is where the 'elevation' argument come into play. Obviously the higher elevation you are, the lower the temperature ranges. Many of these single wall homes have louvered windows to throttle the cooling effect of the trade winds. Since the wood used in SWC is exposed to the elements, redwood or cedar is preferred for their termite and dry rot resistance. In the 1980's, the price of redwood and cedar increased, offsetting the cost advantages SWC once held. Since double wall construction (DWC) requires slightly less skill, single wall homes became less common. An irony about SWC is that they have less bugs, don't need air conditioning, and are cheaper in the long run. Single wall homes typically have no fiberglass insulation and often do not have any drywall, both of which are some of the less earth friendly of all building materials, which also speaks to the dampness issue as well. SWC, IN GENERAL, has no enclosed cavities (as in double wall construction) which can harbor moisture from humidity. A big problem in areas like Fern Forest is the CONSTANT humidity and mold issues that are a product of the constant presence of moisture. IMHO, single wall is THE way to go in these kinds of environs. People are surprised to note that MANY hales in Hawai'i have fireplaces or heating stoves. IMO, even if an area gets cooler, I would STILL stick with SWC and just have a fireplace for those overtly chilly evenings ~ ~ ~

Re: 'treated lumber' - Although there are methods to help prevent insects and decay from taking up residency on and in your hale FROM the GROUND, Formosan Termites do fly when spreading to form new colonies and consist of fertile males and females, which, of course, negates any ground protection related preventatives. I HIGHLY suggest treated lumber which in Hawai'i includes 'Borate' and other preservatives which you can look up or ask about with Honsador or Home Depot lumber suppliers. Sun, rain, and constant humidity can take their toll on wood as well. The BEST prevention is to build on posts and piers and to NOT allow any overhanging shrubbery, trees, or vines in the vicinity of your new hale. You've probably noticed not many hales are near trees and are surrounded with well-maintained lawn areas. This is an ideal way to build your hale. There are metal 'caps' that are built into posts and piers that kinda' look like dog 'cones' that keep bugs from crawling up and into the hale. The ONLY work if everything else is kept cleared off the posts ~ ~ ~

Hope this helped ~ ~ ~

Punanny

[caswellian]

Thanks for the info Kaialoha. I really like the idea of building using "swc".
I had read about the advantages of building off the ground in Hawaii, on top of piers, to allow the trade winds to dry the underside of the home, but not for keeping the bugs out!
I imagine that a post and beam style home using treated 4x4 and 3/4 exterior sheathing with batts for a faux board and batt look, built on elevated piers would be the most affordable option available.

I would imagine that using swc and building to code would lend itself to some creative trim applications, hiding all of the connecting hardware, shear hold downs, electrical wiring and plumbing.
I will have to consult with somebody to help design a place that can be permitted.

[Tink]

I imagine Alaska is too cold for SWF, but ever come across the "old school" post and lintel construction in the forests of Washington? Same type. Lumber camps liked the fast, easy construction, just as Sugar companies did for their "camps". Most cabins on forest land were built similar as well. I would think the plywood edge would be prone to rot, as edge will act like a wick unless Cedar ply is used, but still not as good as the original 1x. If you trim it right, it won't leak or let big bugs in.

Are you a human being, or a human doing?

[PauHana]

Log cabins are single wall, so is cmu , just thicker.

[Jay Bondesen]

I know that there are many homes built this way here, and apparently still being built this way. I would have thought that flammability would have been addressed either in building codes or by insurance companies. Somehow the phrase of 1/2 inch Portland cement or equal as an interior fire barrier for occupied building comes to mind.

Jay

[Cagary]

Also possible to build without ANY wood.

Steel framing, light weight concrete block walls and a metal roof/ceiling.

Termites hate these houses.

-Veritas odium parit”(Terence 195–159 BC))-"Truth begets hatred".

[Tink]

The thin, single wall construction found on the older "plantation" style home is preferred here, as it's simplicity allows the house to "breathe", and not have areas thru construction methods to trap moisture and start mold/dry rot in the walls.There are many types of building classification according to the Codes. Most common residential,construction as an R3, type V-NR, or single family, non rated, or no fire rating. Your common "tract" house found on the mainland. Really not much "fire resistance" other than the 1/2 inch Sheetrock inside. Usually wood siding on the exterior, and we all know how that burns. The interior drywall is not required by Code until you get into 1 hour protection. It is just a cheap way to keep the insulation in place, and to protect electrical wiring, which is a Code item. The plantation home fits into this category of housing, as the electrical wiring is within conduit, or "wire mold" type conduit.Then you have your next step up, which is 1 hour rated construction, which is usually a stucco, or other non flammable finish exterior, or 1/2 inch exterior gypsum drywall under siding, and 5/8 inch Sheetrock on the exterior walls and ceiling assembly. Most common in a higher density housing. Condo's and Townhomes will have the 1 hour protection means on "common" walls. It gets a higher class (IV, III, etc.) with the more "fireproof" materials you,use, or if you add fire sprinklers (AFES). In a lava flow situation, no construction type really works. For instance, for if you were to build a home out of CMU ( concrete masonry block), it may not catch fire and burn to the ground, but at the minimum the roof and everything inside would be gone, or the whole house may be covered. If your house encroaches on the setback requirements, the fire resistance along that particular wall may need a higher rating than the rest of the house. A common dense housing trick is to put one wall on the prop line, construct the wall to 1 hour standard with window opening size, number of vents, etc., and give that house a "maintenance" easement on the property next door. That does't happen here in Puna. The Codes are quite detailed, but this will give one a general idea, as well as if you look up the zoning for the neighborhood you are interested in, as that will also tell you what kind of housing is allowed, setbacks, etc.

Are you a human being, or a human doing?

[ericlp]

SWC is really the only way to go in Hawaii. Not only does it let the house breath, but SheetRock is just to create homes for ants, roaches and termites. If you can see them working you can treat the entire beam or stud or plate. I hate to think of what kinda motels are in some peoples walls around here. I spray the crap out of the bottom plate's every year. Sure it might not look as nice as a sheet rocked wall, but it sure stays cooler and you can monitor any type of bug activity.

You can get creative and build cabinets in the space between the studs. One day I might try this.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworkin...s/view-all You'd be amazed how much room is sitting wasted in between the studs.