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16mm projector
#1
I know this is a long shot... but I have an old Bell and Howell 16mm film projector with a cracked worm gear. It's a common (inevitable) repair but way beyond my ability. Anybody on island do repairs like this?
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#2
can the parts had?


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#3
Yes, but B&H projectors require special tools etc. The insides of one these look more like a clock or watch with all the gears etc. It's definitely a challenge. I understand that replacing the worm gear is a 6-8 hour job for those who know what they are doing.

I believe that you have the technical skills to do this job, esp with all the info on the internet, but it would have to be a labor of love. (Meaning, we can't afford to pay you for all your time...flat rate... maybe...? we can be patient about how long the repair takes)

ETA: info
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#4
Amazon has one for sale. There may be others out there.

https://www.amazon.com/DECO-16MM-MOVIE-PROJECTOR-CASE/dp/B071V94W44/ref=sr_1_10/138-4605767-0613504?ie=UTF8&qid=1498360391&sr=8-10&keywords=16mm+film+projector
Assume the best and ask questions.

Punaweb moderator
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#5
After doing some research, the job is doable but will take many hours as you found out. I found on person that epoxied the gear(evidently it was only cracked) and cleaned up the teeth... I'm sure it would be cheaper to find a good used one. It's a shame too... the machine is a work of art on the inside. I think it would cost about $250 plus parts to get it going again.


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#6
"cheaper to find a good used one"

Probably... the one I have now was free. I was reading about the worm gears- they found some Bell and Howell projectors in a government warehouse that were still new-in-box. Never been used. Every single one of them had a cracked worm gear. They seem to actually last longer getting regular use. Mine was working fine until it sat for 5 years- it broke just sitting there. The replacement gears have a different design so they won't crack. I'll have to think about how I'm going to proceed.
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#7
I could give it a crack. Spending inordinate amounts of time decoding how things work and fixing them is about the only thing I do well. I spent today building a sort of tuning fork shaped frame out of 5/8" square steel to bolt to my NP XL 1100 to add weight and make everything more rigid. I have come to the conclusion that a spring piston gun twice as powerful as another ought to weigh twice as much too in order to not shake the scope to pieces. My fix will also let me rigidly screw the stock to the action. As it is now the three stock screws sandwich the wood stock between the screw heads and the action. One of them has some plastic in the mix too. Experience has shown that there isn't a snowball's chance in **** of that holding up to the massive recoil this thing has. So while you have to support the weight of the stock while shooting, it does not dampen the motion of the action as far as the scope is concerned. Well, no more. Everything will be bolted, silver soldered, screwed, and glued into one massive block. Maybe then I will be able to hit the broadside of a barn more than 5 shots in a row.

Anyway, that's the kind of thing I do. When I was home visiting my parents I fixed their washer by gluing the idler roller back onto its bearing and the dryer blower wheel back onto the motor shaft. Maybe I can glue the worm gear back on.
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#8
Another longshot... if anybody knows of a working 16mm film projector for sale cheap I'm still interested. I don't have the funds to repair the one I have and hoping lightning strikes twice.
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#9
Have hilo machine make u a new gear


HPP

HPP
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#10
Shoots.. old brittle plastic.

Don't know what gear looks like or even how big or loads it has.

Q: can u see or access it in situ?
Is it split on shaft or crumbled?

I guess by the time u get it out its best to just replace the part rather than trying to patch with pc-7 or jb weld.

That said, i was thinking if u could access it maybe exploiting the wicking characteristics of "superglue" might be worth it. Sort of like arthroscopy before surgery.

This is pretty neat. You could touch in the baking soda (or West Systems 406 or 404 : ) then precisely drip the superglue in place. Excess soda/filler vacuumed or blown out.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=slCMkvEfK_U
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