Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Guava wood pig fence?
#1
I've been working on a garden at my place in Orchidland and unsurprisingly the piggies have started to take an interest. Luckily it's not been bad yet but I know I need to build a fence and I'm thinking that a three foot tall fence made of good size guava wood should do the trick. I'm thinking at least 3" thick posts and rails, with holes no bigger than 6" should keep out the pigs for a few years. Any thoughts on design specs and how to build for durability would be welcomed. I don't want to pay for a metal fence and I hate the look of that kind of fence anyway. A guava wood fence should be more affordable and a lot more aesthetic but I worry about durability.
Reply
#2
You'll have to dry the wood and apply preservative or paint on the wood or else it will quickly rot. We have used guava wood for various projects. Never fencing, but it doesn't last long. Also, if you try to use "wet" wood in the ground some of it will sprout and eventually turn into a straggly tree.

A fence like you describe would deter most pigs but it won't keep out a large one that is particularly enamored with your garden, nor would it keep the piglets out.
Reply
#3
Aramis:  I would suggest a solar device that charges wires and can be used without a fence as a barrier.  You can buy them at Dels.  Electric fence chargers.  Put stakes into the ground every 10 or 15 feet and enclose the space.  Run two strands of wire on the stake.  One 6 inches high and the other at 12 to 16 inches.  After getting zapped pigs will not cross.  It can always be taken down and strung up elsewhere if you chose to change project location.  This can all be done for under 200 bucks and the stakes used could be those guava sticks but they will need replacing after awhile.  My neighbor did this around his whole property and kept the pigs out so a little garden should be a cinch.
Reply
#4
I agree with Or1on. An electric fence is the cheapest, easiest to install pig fence that works.

I used regular galvanized steel T post (~$10 each) every 20-30 feet depending on how level the ground is (may need more if uneven).

You'll need electric fence insulators (or just cut some PVC pipe and wire it on with galvanized wire, 16 gauge is easy to work with and strong enough).

I ran three strands of barbed wire - about $60 for 1320 feet of it at HD - one on the ground (or even slightly buried), then one at 10" high and one at 20" hi. The one on the ground will keep them from digging under - which they will try if you don't have it. The wire on the ground is not energized, just the two in the air. You can pull the barbed wire very tight if you've got strong post and put guy wires on your large angles.

I bought a 12V fence charger and run it off a car battery - buy the biggest, cheapest battery you can - I think I paid $22 at Walmart for one - (maybe remember wrong, but it was cheap). You can recharge the battery once a month, or put a solar charger on it yourself. The fence charger should be at least 1 joule output - that is how hard it shocks - mine is a 3 joule cause I hate them little f**kers tearing up stuff. I think I paid just over $100 but had to get it off island. They shock at about 8,000 volts, but won't kill dogs, cats - don't know about chickens, but it will kill geckos.
K2man
Reply
#5
Great, thanks everyone! It'll be an adventure for sure.
Reply
#6
http://charlieselectricfencing.com/anti-...ic-fences/
Reply
#7
I'll add my nod. Electric fencing has proved the most effective means in my experience of keeping out unwanted garden eating animals, of any sort. The painful experience of the testing of the fence sticks in the animals memory for some time. Put a wire right at nose level for whatever animal you are attempting to dissuade.

In my past with deer in South Carolina (which ransacked my neighbors sweet potato vines), I employed "3-D" electric fencing. The gist of that one was you used electric "tape," which is much more visible, at about 5ft high, then run another line that'd 3ft further away, 3ft off the ground. Deer suck at depth perception apparently. Makes them reticent to jump when they detect depth to the barrier. They can jump straight up and over a 8ft normal fence though! So they come along, meet the first 3ft barrier, give it a sniff and ZAP. First and last time that deer gives it a try. After awhile I removed the charge from the 5ft line, didn't need it, they always went for the sniff test on the 3ft line.

My point here is trying to make a barrier at which the animal is incapable of wiggling through, like 5/6 lines of aluminum wire spaced at 6", is more trouble than it's worth. You will get into issues of vegetation touching the lower wires, which greatly reduces the amount of voltage left to shock the animal. Since you are only battling one type of animal here, and one that doesn't jump worth a damn, try just one line of electric tape at like 2ft off the ground. Don't pull it taunt either, it's more intimidating if it flaps in the wind a little bit.

For extra fun set up a camera trap and watch the hijinks ensue.

EDIT: Just read the link from kalakoa and that guy mirrors my sentiments pretty well.
Reply
#8
How does one deal with the grounding rod problem when there is effectively no soil?
Reply
#9
Good point. I'd suggest a 20' strip of rebar laid on the ground and covered in 6" or soil would be more effective as a ground than trying to pound a 6ft piece in vertically.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)