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Concrete forms
#1
I've spent the past two days digging, leveling, placing forms, and pouring concrete for a walkway. This is my first attempt at bender board, but it formed very nicely to a couple of turns. What I don't know, and need some advice with, is when should I remove the forms? I used your standard concrete that says it sets up in 24 hours. I don't want to find myself having to pry off boards that are stuck to the sides, so is there some rule-of-thumb for taking these boards off?

Aloha pumehana,
Brian and Mary
Lynnwood, WA\Discovery Harbour
Aloha pumehana,
Brian and Mary
Lynnwood, WA\Discovery Harbour
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#2
There is no one answer to that except that for ground work it is not necessary to wait until the concrete is fully set over twenty four hours.

The time to await form removal will vary due to the wetness (slump) of the cement, the weather conditions and the rate at which it sets.

Usually within a couple hours forms for low or ground level concrete can be removed and easily cleaned. Some structural elevated concrete may require the forms to remain in place for weeks.
Assume the best and ask questions.

Punaweb moderator
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#3
Thanks, Rob. I finished pouring the concrete about two hours ago, and it's setting up already. I'll give it another hour or so and try taking some of the bender board off. Thanks again.

Aloha pumehana,
Brian and Mary
Lynnwood, WA\Discovery Harbour
Aloha pumehana,
Brian and Mary
Lynnwood, WA\Discovery Harbour
Reply
#4
No worries the boards will pop off after the concrete has dried and most contractors spray diseal fuel on the boards, which makes them less apt to stick and easier to reuse.
Dont pull them to early or you may pull off the concrete, let it cure and them pull them away.
If you brush the walkway with a push broom it helps to make it less slippery when wet...have fun

riverwolf
riverwolf
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#5
I got the boards off without a hitch. Thanks you guys. I'm going to slate-tile the walkway, so this was a good exercise for my newbie concrete learning curve. I'm really pleased with the bender board; made two nice curves that wouldn't've otherwise been possible. Now, cutting all those tile to fit the curve.......

Aloha pumehana,
Brian and Mary
Lynnwood, WA\Discovery Harbour
Aloha pumehana,
Brian and Mary
Lynnwood, WA\Discovery Harbour
Reply
#6
Congrats on your successful pour. I usually use masonite for the curves and spray it with Pam to act as a release. You can pull the forms as soon as the concrete feels firm. If you're making steps and need to finish the risers then the timing is important.

I want to thank you, Fishboy, for your posts a couple of months back about outdoor pizza ovens. I had never given it much thought but after checking out the link to http://www.fornobravo.com/ I got excited. I'm now about half way done with my oven and I'll be building an outdoor kitchen to accommodate it. I already have the outdoor bath house. I may end up moving outdoors.
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#7
Fishboy,

If you are going to go over with slate hurry out with a steel rake and scratch the surface up as rough as you can. (So you have a good bonding surface).

Dan
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#8
quote:
Originally posted by DanielP

If you are going to go over with slate hurry out with a steel rake and scratch the surface up as rough as you can. (So you have a good bonding surface).
Thanks, Dan. I thought of that, too, so I only screed the surface and smoothed it to a rough surface.

I was going to wait until next weekend or so to lay the tile. I assume that's long enough.

Aloha pumehana,
Brian and Mary
Lynnwood, WA\Discovery Harbour
Aloha pumehana,
Brian and Mary
Lynnwood, WA\Discovery Harbour
Reply
#9
quote:
Originally posted by Peter Epperson

I want to thank you, Fishboy, for your posts a couple of months back about outdoor pizza ovens. I had never given it much thought but after checking out the link to http://www.fornobravo.com/ I got excited. I'm now about half way done with my oven and I'll be building an outdoor kitchen to accommodate it. I already have the outdoor bath house. I may end up moving outdoors.
That's really neat, Peter. I'd LOVE to visit your home sometime to get a closer look at that lizard you made, AND have you make me a pizza[Big Grin]

Aloha pumehana,
Brian and Mary
Lynnwood, WA\Discovery Harbour
Aloha pumehana,
Brian and Mary
Lynnwood, WA\Discovery Harbour
Reply
#10
Fishboy,

Your concrete will crack, it has to, so cut control joints so it will crack where you want it to. You can use a diamond blade on a skillsaw. 1" deep every 4 feet or so, depending on the thickness and the width of the path. If you wait a few months for it to crack on its own, you may be able to span the cracks with an elastomeric thinset mortar for the slate adhesive.

Dan
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