08-23-2008, 04:59 AM
There are homes in Hillo from the 1800's that are still standing & ones from the 1970's that are falling apart.... so much has to do with materials & care...
Our main house: built in the early 70's with the house framing in metal ... so termite treating was not done... the only wood was trim, incidental framing inc. lanai & carport.
redwood & cedar crownmold & side trim are still good; pine baseboard - gone. Redwood 2x4 & 4x4 posts had termite bites into the bottom & top 1/8 inch; fir 2x4, 4x4 & 4x16 had/have termite damage throughout, untreated plywood cored out & full of termite droppings.
ohana added in 2000 - treated wood & plywood have no termite droppings... pine trim and untreated plywood have termite droppings beneath...
When we bought house, it was inspected, found to have termites & owner had the whole house tented & we now pay to have annual inspection /treatment with the company that did tenting...
I would definately recommend this route, as ANY wood, inc. trim, cabinets & furniture are edible to the termites (this inc. things like pianos!).
The annual insp fee includes spot treatment as needed & tenting, if needed, every 5 years... seems to be a good investment for the longevity of the bits & pieces of wood in our house.
Adding this:
The main ground treatments are for subterranean termites, but there are also drywood termites that fly to the wood in your house.... no ground treatment will keep them out or affect them...
Found these Termite Tips
· Repair any roof or plumbing leaks as soon as possible. These leaks can allow termites to survive above ground in a house.
· Eliminate any wood-to-soil contact around your foundation and remove wood debris near your home.
· Prevent mulch and soil from touching the siding of your home. They make it much easier for termites to enter.
· Store firewood away from your home.
· Use mesh screens on all windows and doors, as well as in ventilation openings for attics and crawl spaces.
· Seal nail holes and cracks in exposed wood to help prevent easy access by drywood termites.
Our house was tented with Vikane (Sulfuryl Fluoride), the PAN Pesticide Database:
http://www.pesticideinfo.org/Detail_Chem...Id=PC34505
No one accupied the house at the time. This pesticide does not leave a residue, but can leave pillows & cushions 'funky' for a bit (possibly gas trapped???) It also kills EVERYTHING exposed to it, including plants.... leaves & other breathing parts of the plant exposed will die...
Our main house: built in the early 70's with the house framing in metal ... so termite treating was not done... the only wood was trim, incidental framing inc. lanai & carport.
redwood & cedar crownmold & side trim are still good; pine baseboard - gone. Redwood 2x4 & 4x4 posts had termite bites into the bottom & top 1/8 inch; fir 2x4, 4x4 & 4x16 had/have termite damage throughout, untreated plywood cored out & full of termite droppings.
ohana added in 2000 - treated wood & plywood have no termite droppings... pine trim and untreated plywood have termite droppings beneath...
When we bought house, it was inspected, found to have termites & owner had the whole house tented & we now pay to have annual inspection /treatment with the company that did tenting...
I would definately recommend this route, as ANY wood, inc. trim, cabinets & furniture are edible to the termites (this inc. things like pianos!).
The annual insp fee includes spot treatment as needed & tenting, if needed, every 5 years... seems to be a good investment for the longevity of the bits & pieces of wood in our house.
Adding this:
The main ground treatments are for subterranean termites, but there are also drywood termites that fly to the wood in your house.... no ground treatment will keep them out or affect them...
Found these Termite Tips
· Repair any roof or plumbing leaks as soon as possible. These leaks can allow termites to survive above ground in a house.
· Eliminate any wood-to-soil contact around your foundation and remove wood debris near your home.
· Prevent mulch and soil from touching the siding of your home. They make it much easier for termites to enter.
· Store firewood away from your home.
· Use mesh screens on all windows and doors, as well as in ventilation openings for attics and crawl spaces.
· Seal nail holes and cracks in exposed wood to help prevent easy access by drywood termites.
Our house was tented with Vikane (Sulfuryl Fluoride), the PAN Pesticide Database:
http://www.pesticideinfo.org/Detail_Chem...Id=PC34505
No one accupied the house at the time. This pesticide does not leave a residue, but can leave pillows & cushions 'funky' for a bit (possibly gas trapped???) It also kills EVERYTHING exposed to it, including plants.... leaves & other breathing parts of the plant exposed will die...